Traditional Czech cuisine is strong on meat,dumplings and gravy. Try knedlo-zelo-vepřo (bread dumplings, sauerkraut and roastpork), cesneková (garlic soup) or kapr nakmíní (carp with caraway seed). Prague’salso got an range of international eateries
(Ve Smečkách 5) Vesmírna provides training and opportunities for people with special needs. There are healthy snacks like savoury crepes and a ‘how do I choose?’ selection of teas and coffees.
(Týnská 19) Tucked away in an Old Town courtyard,Beas dishes up good-value Indianvegetarian food. There’s another branch(Bělehradská 90) near the IP Pavlova metro station.
(Jakubská 2) Dine in on rustic pizza’n’pasta,or duck next door to the takeaway window and grab a few late night/early morning slices (from 30Kč). Another deal you can’t refuse is free internet.
(Nádražní 84) Across the river in Smíchov,the Staropramen brewery’s restaurant is a modern spot crowded with locals enjoying superior versions of favourite Czech dishes,and lots of different brews. Na Verandách is a short walk from Anděl metro station.
(Blanikcá 24) Vinohrady’s emerging dining scene around Mánesova now features the unpretentious ‘Mousetrap’.Locals come for excellent Bernard beer, huge meaty meals, and to feel good about living in the funky part of town.
(Dlouhá 33) Morocco meets the Middle East amid Dahab’s softly litsouk-like ambience. Relax with a mint tea and a hookah (hubble-bubble pipe) before diving into tangines and couscous. There’s also takeaway falafel and shawarma wraps.
Bohemian beer is one of the world’s best.The most famous brands are Budvar,Plzeňský Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) andPrague’s own Staropramen.
(Kožná 10, Staré Město) This raffish bar is more Žižkov than Staré Město,with cool cocktails and a grungy style in welcome contrast to the crystal shops and Russian dolls just around the corner.
(Bořivojova 86, Žižkov) This late-night cocktail bar is driving grungy Žižkov’s inevitable transformation into Prague’s hottest after-dark neighbourhood.
(Škroupovo nám, Žižkov) Escape the overpriced tyranny of central Prague at this neighbourhood pub in Žižkov. With its ragtag collection of memorabilia including Communist-era posters of forgotten politicians, nothing’s really changed here in a few decades. An essential stop before or after gigs at the Palác Akropolis (below).
(Letna Gardens, Bubeneč) This garden bar has views across the river of the Old Town and southwest to the castle. In summer it’s packed with a young crowd enjoyingcheap beer and grilled sausages. Sometimes the simple things in life are the best.
Lucerna Music Bar
(Vodičkova 36, Nové Město) Lucerna features local bands and almost-famous international acts. Jettison your musical snobbery at the wildly popular ’80s and’90s nights (admission 100Kč, open 8pm to1am Friday and Saturday).
(Kubelikova 27, Žižkov) Get lost in the labyrinth of theatre, live music, clubbing, drinking and eating that makes up Prague’s coolest venue. Hip-hop, house,reggae or rocking Gypsy bands from Romania– anything goes.
Club Radost FX
(Bělehradská 120, Vinohrady) Prague’s most stylish club remains hip for its bohemian-boudoir decor.