Der Wiener Deewan
(09, Liechtensteinstrasse 10) Pakistani curries – three vegetarian and two meat – are prepared daily and served buffet-style at this easy-going eatery. There’s no set price here, just eat at much as you like and pay as much as you like, although the food’s so good you’ll want to fork over a decent amount of cash.
(16, Brunnengasse 67) Authentic Turkish cuisine and one of the largest gardens in the city make Kent a hugely popular choice with locals of all ethnic backgrounds. After your meal, take a wander along the nearby Brunnen market and pick up some fresh fruit for dessert.
Zu den 2 Leiserln
(07, Burggasse 63) A classic Beisl (traditional Viennese pub serving solid Viennese fare) if ever there was one. Leiserln has been serving enormous schnitzels for over 100 years to politicians, blue-collar workers, and everyone in between. Take a seat and appreciate a true Viennese institution.
(07, Mondscheingasse 10) St Josef is the choice of the healthy diner. It only serves wholly organic and vegetarian cuisine, and the menu changes daily.
(Seegasse 26) Many vegetarian dishes have dropped off the menu at Styrian-style Stomach, but some remain, and the quaint, ramshackle rooms and the courtyard create a rustic outpost in the big city.
(02, Strasse des Ersten Mai 116) In the Prater park, this place serves Hintere Schweinsstelze (roasted pork hocks) and the like to a rowdy crowd of international travellers who wash it all down with huge mugs of Czech beer fresh from the barrel.
Sausages are the fast-food choice of many Viennese (especially at the end of a night out), and sausage stands dot the city. For fresh fruit and cheap kebabs, head for the colour Naschmarkt (06, Linke Wienzeile), which also has a string of fine Asian diners.
Drinking and Dancing
The area near Schwedenplatz, dubbed the Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle), may still attract plenty of drinkers (mainly drunk teenagers and out-of-towners), but the real scene has moved out of the centre to the likes of the Naschmarkt, along the Danube Canal (summer only), Schleifmühlgasse area, and along the Gürtel, an outer ring road that joins up with the A22 on the north bank of the Danube and the A23 southeast of town.
(Schwarzenberg Strasse 1-3) With plenty of tellies featuring live English football and international rugby, along with Guinness and Stella on tap, Flanagans pulls in the expat crowd like no other pub in Vienna. Friday and Saturday nights here can be a spectacle.
(Tel 587 00 73; 04, Treitlstrasse 2) The ubercool Kunsthallencafé is a mecca for BoBos and students, offering slick surrounds, comfy couches, regular DJs, and a massive summer terrace. Surprisingly, the desserts here are divine. Rhiz (Tel 409 25 05; Lerchenfelder Gürtel 37-38) One of the bars lining the U-Bahn (underground) arches near the Gürtel, this is a hip mecca of Vienna’s electronic music scene. Also recommended: Chelsea (Tel 407 93 09; Lerchenfelder Gürtel 29-31) Underground spot with frequent indie band concerts and DJs. Phil (Tel 581 04 89; 06, Gumpendorferstrasse 10-12) Retro bookshop-bar with a bohemian slant and easygoing vibe. Schikaneder (Tel 585 58 88; 04, Margaretenstrasse 22-4) Alternative bar-cinema attracting students and black-clad folk.
(Tel 533 75 25; Danube Canal/Augartenbrücke) Time after time this uninhibited shrine to music (it has one of the best sound systems in Europe) puts on great live shows and features the top DJs from Vienna and abroad. Each night is a different theme, with Crazy on Tuesday and London Calling on Wednesday among the most popular.
(04, Operngasse 24; hWed- Sun) Often leading the way, or at least keeping pace, with Vienna’s progressive clubbing scene. Its tiny dance floor is therefore regularly bursting at the seams. The sounds range from jazz to world music.
(Tel 532 42 41; 01, Burgring 1) In the middle of the park of the same name, this place is very popular. There’s modern dance and an atmospheric 1950s-style salon that was once a former Walzer Dancing venue. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, although it’s open other evenings, too.