Busabout Adventures

Tell Me How You Really Feel - 18th August

Six weeks ago, I was in Paris.
Five weeks ago, I was in Berlin.
Four weeks ago, I was in Vienna.
Three weeks ago, I was in Venice.
Two weeks ago, I was in Korcula, Croatia.
One week ago, I was in Slovenia.

Now, of course, I'm in London, still reeling from everything. I actually got up and went to work this morning. I'm sure they were pleased to see me turn up in obscenely wrinkled clothes (gotta get an iron) with a dazed look on my face. The inevitable question was posed:

"How was your trip?"

I knew it would happen, but I didn't have an answer. How was my trip?

I met what seemed like hundreds of people, some crazy or suspect, most friendly and incredibly fun. I went whitewater rafting in Croatia, canyoning in Austria, tobogganing in Slovenia, and hiking in the Czech Republic. I touched the Berlin wall, toured the Red Light District, and gawked at the Basilica San Marco. I ate baby octopus, pork knuckle, and genuine Belgian waffles, not to mention countless pizza slices and gelato cones. I drank steins in the beer halls of Munich and Austria, sampled walnut brandy on a Croatian sailboat, and toured a brewery in Bruges. I spent hour after hour on busses, trains, boats and planes, missing the city I left behind but looking forward to the next one. I sang karaoke, pub crawled in the rain, and stayed up way past my bedtime. I added numerous destinations to my list, stamps in my passport, and random foreign words to my vocabulary.

That's how my trip was. So if you ask me that question and I say, "Great," know that my answer is a gross understatement, because until you do it yourself, you can only imagine. And doing it yourself will far surpass your imagination, so my advice is to start planning.

I've got some laundry to catch up on and some boxes to unpack, but you haven't heard the last of me. I hear this rumour that itchy feet are incurable.

But for now, the photo albums on the blog have all been uploaded - my computer is not letting me add pictures to the posts, but everything is up in the albums.

Blogabout Europe is Back in London - 17th August

I'm back. 

I don't know what to think.  It's kind of like crashing into an alternate universe that seems vaguely familiar.  Suddenly there are all kinds of things to deal with:  dissertations, moving house, work...yet all I can think about is Croatia, Austria, coach journeys and multiple foreign languages.  I bought a sandwich at the airport in London and had a quick rifle through my brain to figure out the correct way of saying 'Thank you.'  Then I remembered - 'Thank you.'    It was kind of disappointing, because I was ready to give Danke Schoen, Hvala, Merci, or Grazie. 

Since I am currently between houses, I have no internet connection and so have snuck into a posh local pub here in Teddington.  The fact that I still wear whatever is at the top of my bag (cropped trousers, flip flops and a hoodie) didn't seem to impress the barman, but he let me in.  Tomorrow afternoon I'll head to the Kingston University library for some free wireless, so you can check back for photos from the Eastern Trekker and more updates on the last few days. 

In the meantime, there is a pub quiz kicking off here and I am about to be asked to shut down this computer, so I'd better comply...especially because I know that my next step is to go back on the Busabout website and start checking out the Egypt tours.  I hear the diving is fantastic and I quite fancy checking out those pyramids...

Lazy Backpacker Syndrome 12th August

I'm in Bled, Slovenia. This is a place at the foot of the Alps, reminiscent of Lake Tahoe, California. There is a massive freshwater lake, surrounded by gorgeous forest and mountains, complete with castle and alpine cottages. When we arrived, Carlos (our guide) gave us numerous options of things to do - whitewater rafting, canyoning, horseback riding, paragliding, skydiving - but I decided to take it easy and pass on these activities.

Then the feeling of guilt started to kick in. This is common among backpackers, especially when you have been on the road for over a month.

You've done a lot. It might not always seem like it, but you have actually been pretty busy. You're in an attractive little town, and you kind of want to take it easy.

But what about Carpe Diem? Is passing up activities really living life to its fullest?

I figured I'd take it easy today, but there was a knock on my door just after breakfast, and I was told that some of the other Eastern Trekkers were heading out for a toboggan ride and a swim.

This is where the conflict started. To be lazy and take a break from the constant pace of travelling, or go out and push myself to do something.

Of course, the answer is always to go out and do it. So I did.

And, like always, I did not regret my decision. I was in a group of seven, and we walked around Lake Bled until we hit the toboggan course. There was a chair lift up to the top, with predictably fantastic views, and predictably dodgy toboggans. I jumped into one, got strapped in and given instructions from the elderly Slovenian man running the ride:

"Forward, Go. Back, Stop."

Next thing I knew, I was sailing down a mountain in a small plastic vehicle attached to a singular metal track.

There was some screaming and some unnecessary braking, but it was so fun I got up there and did it a second time (2x for 10 euro).

After that, we walked further down the track and went for a swim. Lake Bled has a small island in the center, and on this island is a church. Legend goes that if you make a wish and ring the bell of the church, your wish will come true.

Well, I've kissed the Blarney Stone, so I'm not one to scoff at legends. I jumped in the water and swam my six weeks of unfit body across the lake to that island.

We were accompanied by two of our group in a rowboat, so the cameras could come along. I envied the rowers, because halfway across the lake I had a minor anxiety attack, convinced that i was going to choke on my hair and drown. Of course, this did not happen, we all reached the island safely, and rang the bell.

No word yet on that wish fulfillment thing, but it's always worth a try.

Tomorrow it's an early start, back on the bus, and on to Salzburg. You might recall that I passed through Salzburg a few weeks ago, promising to return. Now that time is here, and I'm still shocked at how quickly the time passes.

Every day reinforces the fact that no matter how much I might want to cop out and be lazy, it's always worth it to suck it up and try something different. Even if you are careening down a mountainside without a helmet.

Eastern Trekker - 10th August

Ten days in Croatia and I still can t find the apostrophe key. I m writing from Pag, and the town we are in has one 8-computer internet cafe. I ve been spoiled so far with hostel wireless connections.

I am officially an Eastern Trekker now. Joined the tour from Split to Prague yesterday morning, and a rough morning it was, thanks to the festivities of Friday night. We started at a bar called the Red Room, then moved on to the beach clubs. On the beach, I noticed a large group of deaf people. I ve got deaf parents, so was instantly intrigued. The only problem was that I know American Sign Language, and these people weren t using ASL.

Contrary to popular belief, sign language isn t universal, so there was no guarantee that they would be able to understand me, but I took a shot and tapped one guy on the shoulder.

"Are you deaf?" I asked. Duh. Great conversation opener.

It turned out that he didn t know ASL, but his friend did, and I carried on a conversation with them for a while. They were Italian and Croatian, also on holiday. One of them even had friends at Gallaudet, which is where my parents went to college. Random small world. It s a trippy experience having a conversation between an English speaker and an Italian speaker in American sign language. I think that language barrier is starting to crack.

Here in Pag, another Croatian island, there tend to be a lot of German tourists, so hospitality workers have a pretty good knowledge of German. I got a gelato today (cherry flavor) and he told me it cost funf kuna. Since my German counting abilities extend up to the number seven, I knew that meant five. This is really cheap for gelato, so I might have to get another one later.

So far I m a bit confused on this tour. I keep looking around going, "These people werent on my boat, where am I?" Our guide, Carlos, forced us to "speed date" on the bus - rotate from seat to seat and have a quick chat with people so we got to know each other. I was bitter about this at first, because all I wanted to do was sleep off the night before, but I was glad he did it. Looks like another good group who are only going to make it harder for me to get on that plane out of Prague on Saturday.

Tomorrow I leave Croatia and enter Slovenia. Better consult the language dictionary and swap my kunas back into euros. I ve also got some photos and videos to catch up on, which I ll post as soon as I can get some wireless. Until then, I see a beach outside and it is calling my name. Got to take advantage of this, because pretty soon it won t be at my front step anymore...

Say it Isn't So - 8th August

I had a reality check today when we pulled into port in Split.

My trip ends in one week. On Saturday the 16th, I fly home to London. Six weeks seemed endless, and I am sorry to face the fact that it is not. The day I left for the sailing trip, I ran into a girl at the hostel who had just returned. Her comment was that she couldn t believe how quickly it had gone.

On Monday, I thought I had plenty of time. On Wednesday, there were still a good few days left. But now it is Friday, I am back in Split for one night, and I disembark tomorrow and join the Eastern Trekker Bohemian Rhapsody tour.

When I left London, I thought that this would probably be my last shot to do something like this, backpack for a six week block. I thought that at 26, it was time for some stability. I figured that I d get back, finish my dissertation, get a proper job, and take weeklong vacations for the rest of my life. Silly Lauren. I should have known that could never be the case.

I ve met plenty of travellers who are older than me and who have job commitments. It s never as difficult as it seems, just takes some planning. I am sure my backpack will be seeing some more action over the next few years, and I ve been flipping through the Busabout brochure again. Egypt is sounding really good right about now...

The number one thing to keep in mind about travel is that when you cross one destination off the list, you had better be prepared to add at least three more. And the best part about going home is figuring out where to go next.

No Fear - 6th August

I got stung by a wasp on the boat this morning. I think it is important to mention that I have been successfully been avoiding all stinging insects since the age of 5, when I was unjustly attacked on the playground. But today, there I was, lazing around on the top deck when it happened. I flung my arm out to the side and immediately felt a sting. I began hopping around and shouting "Ow Ow Ow," which was an effective way of handling the situation. Once I calmed down and pulled out the stinger, I realized that it really wasn t that big of a deal. For 20+ years I have been afraid of what happened today, but when all is said and done, I can hardly see the mark on my arm.

The moral of my story is...well, there isn t really one, just to look around before you stick out your arm on a boat. Also that you can spend your whole life running from something that will only end up getting you anyway, and maybe it s not so bad after all. The incident reinforced my motto of No Fear. Which isn t really my motto, but it s a nice idea and makes me feel brave.

I might now mention that I am in an internet cafe in Makarska, on Day 5 of the sail. I constantly feel a rocking motion, even when I m on land, and can barely remember a time when I wasn t sharing a miniscule room with someone else. We re docked here for the rest of the afternoon and overnight, so I am seeking shelter from the wicked heat outside.

Every day we turn off the engine for a swim stop, leaping off the top deck into the shockingly salty water, then floating around on lilos for what seems like hours. Then it is on to the next destination. Each of the islands we have stopped at have been similar, but still retain their own character. Makarska has a staggering mountain range as a town backdrop, and tonight we head to a bar in a cave.

There s a bee hovering around me now, but for once I m not cowering in fear. The sun, however, is a different story. It s powers to burn are going full force, so I m going to duck out and visit the market stalls by the beach. Pirate and Sailor party tomorrow night, and I ve got to find some props.

Arrr Mateys.

Getting to Know You - 5th August

As I mentioned before, 28 people on a boat. We are sailing on a pretty good sized boat, but it s not exactly a yacht, so we had to get to know each other pretty quickly. On the second night, this was accomplished by a time honored favorite, the animal game.

What? You say you don t know the animal game? You haven t lived. The game involves the group clapping in time, then one person does their own animal move, followed by someone else s animal move, thus passing the turn to that person, who does the same. If it sounds juvenile, that s because it is. The majority of the boat formed a huge circle on the deck, and those who didn t play were watching. We each picked an animal, invented a motion, and got down to business.

Led by Crab, an 18-year-old Aussie, we spent a couple of hours chanting animal names and doing animal moves. The consequence is that I still see people as their animal first, and spent most of the next day calling people Elephant, Fox, or Crocodile. It s getting better now, I am starting to put names to faces and eliminate the animal titles, though I still respond to the names Lauren and Shark.

The result of our entire boat getting on really well is that we travel in large groups. Tonight is no exception, as I am due for dinner in half an hour, when 22 of us will be meeting at the docks before going for pizza and pasta. It s a mixed group, aged about 18 - 30. A substantial number of people are teachers in their other lives, but there is also a forensic scientist, a charity fundraiser, and someone who plays online poker for a living. The people I meet while traveling really change my perspective on career possibilities sometimes.

I will get some photos up as soon as I have more time onshore, hopefully tomorrow. But if you are desperate for a visual, just imagine blue skies, masts swaying in harbours, and extremely happy people walking around in swimsuits. This is my life.

Busabout Guide: Lucas - 2nd August

Here's the video from my chat with Lucas, one of the Busabout guides. Still kind of hard to hear because of the wind (we were by the sea) but hopefully you can follow along.

It's a Hard Knock Life - 3rd August

Right now I'm in Mljet, and I was happy to find that the lone hotel here has free wireless. I am sitting in the bar area, Toni Braxton is singing 'Unbreak My Heart,' and I am having a break from the sun, which is going full speed outside.

There are about 28 people on my boat, and we're crammed into tiny cabins all over the boat, which isn't an issue as all of our time is spent out on the deck. Mljet is experiencing some sort of unusual boat boom right now, and we are docked seven or eight boats out, which means passing through other boats to get to shore. I got off, realized I forgot my converter, and had to go back and do it again. As it turns out, I hadn't forgotten my converter. I had it the whole time. So the moral is: don't forget anything. And if you do, make sure you actually forgot it before going back to retrieve it.

It's been complete bliss, all 36 hours of it - I got up with the breakfast bell (I'm like a farm animal, the promise of food always gets me moving) and then hit the deck for a morning nap. It was quiet for a while, as about half the boat didn't get in until five AM, two hours before departure. Eventually the top deck was covered in dozing sunbathers, and every chair was full under the umbrella on the middle deck.

As promised, I tried some unusual food - for me, coming from Indiana, it is unusual, though I know many people will disagree. Despite my reaction, it really did taste pretty decent. Tomorrow we sail to Dubrovnik, and the buzz is spreading about this place so the excitement only continues...

Ferry Pricing - 1st August

I had a question about the cost of the ferry...it varies depending on when you book and what kind of deals they are running. I went with Jadrolinija and booked online. They claimed to be running a 20 euro one-way sale on all ferry tickets, but the only seats available were deck class. I think I wound up paying about 80 pounds (I know, not a backpacker budget) for my bed, but I want to say it can be done cheaper.

Ferry to Paradise... (Croatia) - 1st August

I could say that I had a rough night on the deck of the ferry, but that would be a complete and total lie. And this isn t Lonely Planet; I actually do everything I write about.

I had a berth. And it was amazing. I swear it was like being back in the womb, tucked in a snug bottom bunk, being rocked back and forth by the boat. There were three Italian girls in the room with me, all friendly and non-English speaking, but we managed by pointing and smiling a lot. I woke this morning when soothing Italian opera music was piped through the speakers at 5:50AM. And I was refreshed and ready to go, a feeling I have not experienced often on this trip.

One of the (many) perks of having a berth was the free breakfast that went with it. I came out of my room and squeezed past all of the backpackers sleeping fitfully on the floor by the stairs. For a second, I felt like a fraud. Backpackers don t have berths! That feeling didn t last long, though. My bed was so good. Breakfast was bread, meat, cheese, and muesli, of course. I sat at a table next to a porthole and watched the sun over the water.

Then two little Italian nuns sat next to me. This was sort of awkward because it made me feel guilty, though I wasn t sure why. I m not Catholic and I hadn t done anything wrong, but nuns have that effect on me, making me feel like I should be a better person in general. They made the sign of the cross and began eating, sneaking looks at the blasphemous girl next to them who took her food for granted. Once they found out I was Inglese and not Italiano, they stopped attempting conversation and my guilt ebbed away.

I put my pack on and walked onto Croatian ground for the first time. Instantly I started sweating in the brutal 7AM heat, and was a slick mess by the time I got to Hostel Best, where the 24-hour reception was closed. A little band of backpackers grew, waiting on the stairs in front of the door. Around 8:15 an angry woman came out in her nightdress, told us to quickly put our bags in reception, get out, and come back at 11:30 for check in.

According to the poll on the righthand side of the page, people have voted that I should eat the most random local food I can find. Thanks a lot, voters. Which means I ll keep my eyes peeled and do that this evening. In the meantime, I have already sussed out where the beaches are. I am kind of tempted to see if they ll let me sleep on the ferry again, but I might end up back in Italy, and right now I am loving Croatia.

In Transit - 31st July

Last night I learned that you can see Venice in two hours, but you can t really experience it in that time. I caught the 8PM shuttle bus into the city and hit the ground running with someone else who also only had one night. We followed the mildly unclear signs to the Rialto bridge and then on to Piazza San Marco, grabbed a slice of pizza and a scoop of gelato, then wandered the maze of alleyways back to catch the last shuttle back to the campsite at 10:30.

After a night of trying to block out the sounds of my cabin neighbor and his newfound post-toga party love connection (Note to the guy in Dego 4: the walls are thin. We heard everything.) I was up, checked out, and on the bus to Ancona. I was so engrossed in Gladiator that I didn t even fall asleep, which is my usual order of business on the bus. During one of our service stops, I grabbed Lucas, the guide, to ask him a few questions, so I will get that up for you to see as soon as I can. The guides seem to have a pretty good gig - riding buses around Europe all summer, advising people on what to see and do. I have discussed this with other passengers, and we can t quite figure out where the work part comes in. I suspect the guides might have something to say to that.

I got off the bus in Ancona at 1:30PM. My ferry departs at 9:00PM. Ancona isn t exactly one of Italy s more beautiful towns. It s not even a close contender. So what to do in a place for 7 1/2 hours? Not shop, because everything is closed for siesta until late afternoon. But, across the street from the train station, I found my answer in the form of an air conditioned internet cafe. Then I went for a wander, found a wide staircase that led up the side of a building, and sunned myself there for a while. Now I am back at the internet cafe. The supermarket should be open by now, so that is my next destination. This is the glamorous part of European travel.

One Night in Venice - 30th July

I love Italy. And I have about 24 hours to indulge in that love, because tomorrow evening I am off to Croatia on a luxurious overnight ferry. I like to pretend that it is going to have a cruise ship atmosphere. I think this is what they call denial.

I am sweating it up in the internet cafe of Alba D Oro (cannot find the apostrophe on this Italian keyboard) and then will hop the shuttle bus into Venice. This is the only campsite I have during my stay, and so far so good. I am in a three bed cabin, pretty basic, but there is a bar, restaurant, supermarket, pool, gym, beach volleyball...the list goes on. Better go find the showers and go see the main attraction, or I will get sucked into the campsite and won t make it out.

This will be the last post until I reach Croatia, which will be sometime Friday morning, when I am sure to be feeling fresh as a daisy after my overnight cruise. Be sure to check out the photo albums if you haven t already. In the meantime, I will be wandering the canals and testing out the local gelato. I know, I know. Rough life.

xx Lauren

Blogabout Europe Goes Canyoning in Austria - 29th July

Given the option of several 'extreme' activities, I chose arguably one of the tamer ones - Canyoning. But I've been skydiving, and it's not often I get the chance to splash around in a canyon underneath the Bavarian Alps. A morning well spent.

Casual Nudity - 27th July

Germany = Nude sunbathing. So, when in Rome...

Not really. My Western sensibilities didn't allow me to participate in the casual nudity that was happening all over the English Gardens this morning. As it was, I felt like a shimmering beacon of paleness in the midst of all the browned, potbellied bodies dotting the grass. Based on today's observations, I have learned a few guidelines when it comes to nude sunbathing. They are as follows:

1. Bathers are typically male, and between the ages of 40 - 75.
2. Dark, leathery skin is the norm - no tan lines need apply.
3. Potbellies give you bonus points
4. You should be well-versed in the art of strutting around so as to best display the aforementioned potbelly.
5. The essence of nude sunbathing is all in the pose. Never lie demurely on your stomach or on your back with arms at your sides. Sprawl. Bend those knees, prop yourself up on your elbow or reach your arms back and rest your head on your hands. Confidence is key.

Checking in from Munich - 25th July

This post was meant to be a video interview with Monica, one of the Busabout guides, but when I was watching it back today, I realised that we were moving our mouths, but all you could hear was the wind whipping around. Not the most interesting video. So I'll have to do another take with my next guide - in the meantime, if you've got any questions for the onboard guides, send them my way and I can ask for you.

All day yesterday I was biking around the Austrian countryside, stopping occasionally to taste Apricot Schnapps, handmade chocolates, and strawberry rhubarb jam. By mid-afternoon everyone on the tour was starving, and we salivated as the tour guide cooked up a barbecue of pork sausages, steaks, salads, and bread. Go on the Grape Grazing tour, and do not pack a lunch. You will regret missing out on this feast. I was blissfully happy with every bite.

At the end of the cloudy (but rain-free) afternoon, I was surprised to realise that my time in Vienna was over, and this morning - back on the bus. Many of the people who do Busabout tend to spend 3 nights in the big cities and 2 nights in the smaller ones, and for me, this has been pretty good timing. So it was up at seven and onboard at eight, bound for Salzburg and then back into Germany for Munich. Got a brief view of those Alps as we drove through the mist and sunflower fields of Bavaria, and I am really looking forward to St. Johann now. I'll get back to Salzburg when I do the Eastern Trekker tour, which is why I didn't stop today.

I am overdue for a nice, long sleep, and my brain cells are fading, so I'll get back tomorrow after I've checked out the Sleeping Beauty castle. Seems like forever ago that I was planning to visit it, and now I'm here and already halfway through my trip. Six weeks is flying by in this alternate universe of travel - I definitely see how people can keep this up for months on end, and am jealous I don't get to be one of them this time around.

xxx Lauren

Always look on the bright side... Vienna - 23rd July

Gorgeous weather in Vienna.

That's a lie. It's disgusting outside. But, bad as it seems, it can always be worse - at least I'm not in hospital.

One of the guys on Busabout, Simon from Australia, went to hospital in Berlin with a toothache. This leads to a root canal, which is conducted without antibiotics.

This turns into infection. When he gets to Cesky, he ends up going to hospital in the middle of the night with a swollen jaw and throat (his self-diagnosis - "I look like a pelican"). In Cesky, the doctors removed a tooth, which didn't help matters. All night he was spitting pus and making a conscious effort to breathe.

He was fading fast on the way to Vienna, couldn't eat, could barely drink, and had to wander around aimlessly during the service stop, taunted by the massive spread of schnitzel and veggies. And I didn't want to say in front of him, but man was it ever good.

Monica, our guide (video interview pending), whisked him off to the hospital as soon as the bus pulled into Vienna. Luckily, she speaks German, got everything sorted, and Simon underwent another surgery to drain the pus and start getting back to normal. He'll be in hospital for up to a week, recovering.

Lessons learned:
1) travel insurance can be useful after all
2) always get antibiotics

We visited Simon in hospital today, bearing gifts of an English-language Rolling Stone and today's Telegraph. On our way out, a few more people from the bus turned up with his bag. It's good to see backpackers band together in support.

I even managed to fit some sightseeing in - Simon's room has a kick-ass view of Vienna, so I got to see the city in the end. There's always a silver lining.

Rain or shine, I'm going on a Grape Grazing tour tomorrow. This involves bike riding (but now I am a professional at that - Tour de France, here I come), wine tasting, jam factories, and possibly even swimming in the Danube.

I am even going to try out some German, and hopefully will drop my bad habit of pronouncing all the words with a terrible French accent. The camera is coming along, so check back in a few days for a recap of all the excitement.

xxxx lauren

Language Barriers - 21st July

So yesterday I was sitting innocently in the restaurant next to the hostel in Cesky when I was taken to task for not knowing Czech. Keep in mind that this place regularly hosts English-speaking backpackers, though it is a local hangout as well. I came in with my laptop and set up shop at one of the tables near a power point so I could begin blogging. As my computer was starting up, I ordered a small plate of wedges from the girl behind the bar, whose English is far superior to my Czech (which is nonexistent), so we communicated in English.

After I had been sitting for a few minutes, a scraggly man stumbled past my table (at four PM) and asked me what I presume was a question. I shrugged my shoulders, palms raised, shook my head, and said "I don't understand." Doom and gloom descended over his face, and he immediately began shaking his finger at me.

"Czech czech czech czech," he said. "You are here and you don't know? Czech czech czech." More finger-shaking. "You should try." (said very angrily) As he stomped up the spiral staircase to the toilets he continued to rant. "You no even try! Czech czech." His voice faded into the air as he vanished above me.

I felt a bit sad. It is not my goal to offend anyone, and so far I didn't think I had. I made a weak effort with my French in France, threw out a few 'Dankes' and 'Bittes' in Germany, and have done a lot of smiling in the Czech Republic to try and compensate for my lack of knowledge.

Maybe he's got a point, though. I haven't tried at all since I've been here. Czech is not linked to any language that I am familiar with, and as soon as I learn a word, I forget it. So many people speak English, or at least enough English to complete a transaction, that there has been very little effort on my part the whole time I've been travelling.

Even worse, there is Czech in my family - my middle name is Vlach, and I am only a few generations away from actual Czechoslovakian relatives. The only word my Gramma remembered was 'Nazdar,' which I have since learned is the English equivalent of 'Ahoy'. So far I have not found an adequate situation in which I can apply this knowledge, though I did make an attempt during the rafting trip. Are you familiar with the blank, confused look? This is what I got.

If I lived here in Cesky Krumlov, I'd probably get kind of annoyed, too, bloody tourists crowding the picturesque streets. So from here on out, I am resolving to learn the basics while on the bus to any new destination. This means learning the following phrases:

Please
Thank You
I'm Sorry
I don't speak German/Italian/Croatian/Slovenian (?)/ Czech
I am American but I didn't vote for Bush so please stop blaming me

I think maybe a few cheat sheets with pronunciation guides are in order. Flash cards, maybe?

When he came back down the stairs, we resolutely ignored each other. I guess mutual animosity requires no spoken language.

Tomorrow: on to Austria, so I'd better brush up on my German.

Blogabout Europe Goes Rafting in Cesky Krumlov - 20th July

Rafting. If you are in Cesky, just do it. At 250 Czech crowns (approx. 11 euro), it's practically free. Every day at 1:00 and 2:00, this is a floating pub crawl that can last for six hours if you're not careful. We had fantastic weather - I had my first sunburn of Europe, and hopefully my last. Saying that, I know of some others who did it in the rain and still raved about it, so weather isn't a deciding factor. Oh, and if you're a novice rafter, don't stress. Paddling is optional, with the river's steady flow and occasional 'rapids.' You will get wet!   

Hostel Spotlight: Hostel 99, Cesky Krumlov - 19th July

Hostel 99:  This is the kind of hostel they all should be like; forget the 526 bed behemoths, this place is little, crammed with beds and wooden beams - finally somewhere with personality.

Where:  Hostel 99, Cesky Krumlov (not hard to find, this isn't a big town)
Cost:  I paid roughly 13 euro a night.  Bring it on.

Perks: Atmosphere.  Grab a drink from the restaurant next door and take it to the picnic tables on the terrace.  Also bring your camera - you'll want photos of this view over Cesky.  Internet is cheap - 30 czech crowns (approx. 1.3 euro) as a one time fee, then you don't pay again.  Wireless is also available next door.  This place is right in Cesky, so no worries about paying for transport.  The restaurant next door does a great feed, and massive too - just be prepared to wait during busy times.

My favourite features:  The hostel interior, which is just like climbing into the pages of a fairy tale.  All of the little wooden beds lined up in a row, huge beams crossing the vaulted ceilings, and mystery rooms at the top of rickety staircases.  If you're in the big dorm upstairs, go for the bed on the far right hand corner - you get a big space to let your bag's contents run wild.  

Bust a Move - 18th July

Cesky Krumlov - 18th July

This morning it was straight back on the bus again for a quick ride to Cesky Krumlov. What? No Prague? Don't worry, I'm passing back through later on - it's actually my last stop of this whole trip before flying back to London.

These small towns on the Busabout route are essential stops - it is such a relief when the bus pulls down a tiny side street (maybe not for the driver) and the passengers traipse across the cobblestones to funny-looking little hostels. So far, Cesky's hostel 99 is no exception. It appears to be run by a crazy Brazilian or two, and the whole place feels like the Seven Dwarves' Cottage. I'll be doing a profile on this one, so that will be going up in a couple of days.

A group of about 20 people got on the bus from Cesky as we arrived, and everyone was raving about the rafting trip, so I think that's what I'll be getting up to tomorrow. A bit weird as I've hit that point where there are no familiar faces, because everyone that I've been on the route with so far is still in Prague or Dresden. I forgot that I was travelling alone because I was seeing most of the same people for the last week or so. This is a whole new crowd, which is the beauty of this hop on hop off thing - you're not stuck with anyone you don't want to be, and you can always do your own thing.

This is where I can catch up on my housekeeping - did laundry last night (and boy was it already overdue) and will take a look at re-packing my bag. Despite my best intentions to meticulously pack the night before, I usually end up rolling clothes and shoving them in at 7AM so I can grab some free breakfast - always some variation on muesli, yogurt, and toast, no matter where you are - and catch the bus on time.

Will get that Berlin nightlife stuff up as promised, and I have charged up the camcorder so you can expect some more video footage over the next week.

Going to go layer up and take a look at this postcard town - whoever said Europe had hot summers was seriously misinformed.

We're not in Kansas Anymore, Toto - 17th July

I've just been through two days of the most intensive history lesson I've ever had in my life. Berlin is a city with more in its past than any city where I come from, and it's an exhausting, rewarding place to visit.

When the bus first rolled into Berlin and stopped outside of the CityStay hostel, I was a bit jaded. This was the vibrant, up-and-coming European city that everyone was raving about? It looked a little bit industrial and lacked the glamour of Paris or the cleanliness of Amsterdam. But I think a ten-hour drive on very little sleep can alter your perspective, no matter how comfortable the bus seat is.

On the first full day in the city, several people from the hostel joined a free walking tour. This went a long way towards changing my snap judgment on Berlin. Standing on top of the bunker where Hitler committed suicide can do that to a person. Follow that up with the remnants of the Berlin wall, Checkpoint Charlie, and numerous stories about the divide between the East and West; for once, I didn't feel like I was on a movie set.

The wall was shorter than I thought, thinner than I thought, and had more of an impact on me than I had expected. I remember being eight when it was torn down, and people carrying around little pieces of wall in velvet sacks, tokens from a world that most of them would probably never fully understand. I know it's important to remember monumental historical events, but I'm not quite convinced that a piece of the Berlin Wall has a place in John Smith's Chicago living room.

The next day I went to Sacshenhausen Concentration Camp. You won't find any photos on my page; I debated, and people made very valid points about whether or not cameras were appropriate, but in the end it wasn't for me. We took a train out to the camp, and our guide led us on the same walk the prisoners took. It was rainy and chilly, but I realized that I had more layers on than they would have, and I would have the chance to return when I was finished. Complaining about getting wet in an old concentration camp doesn't make much sense.

It was eerie, walking through the reconstructed barracks, cells, and the infirmary where unethical doctors performed unnecessary surgeries. The guide led us around the camp for about three hours, explaining what everything was for and what happened there. I had to stop paying attention when she stood in front of an old gallows and told us about how they were used on the completely innocent prisoners. We have all heard the stories, but the intensity of standing in the spot where they happened is almost too much. Then you remember that the prisoners didn't have the option of saying 'enough,' and you remember again that you have nothing to complain about.

Other people took photos; they took photos of everything. The sound of digital camera shutters were constant, as people eagerly zoomed in on the gas chambers, operating tables, and body cellar. I know that these pictures can serve an educational purpose, but somehow I suspected that many of these were going to end up in a photo album - "My Trip to Berlin," and shown as bragging rights.

Enough. I'll climb off my soapbox.

Berlin turned out to be brilliant. I don't honestly know if I'll go back, but I can definitely say I won't forget it.

Sitting now in Prague, completely wiped out after a long day of travelling and sleeping on the coach. Tomorrow I'm on to Cesky Krumlov, a town with a reputation for being a mini-Prague, where I'm going to take it easy for a few days before heading on to Vienna. Berlin nightlife and a good night's sleep don't exactly go hand in hand...more about that experience later

Bikeabout Amsterdam - July 15th

First things first.  I am now sitting on a cushy couch in the CityStay hostel in Berlin, finally catching up after the madness of Amsterdam.  After yesterday's ten hour bus journey, a massive schnitzel dinner, and a fantastic sleep, I am now clear-headed enough to let you know what's going on.  So let's go back to Amsterdam...

Bicycles scare me.  All I can envision is a twisted mass of metal, blood, and flesh.  This did not bode well for Amsterdam, a city where tourists and locals alike are regularly mown down by cyclists.  However, by employing the old stand-by of looking both ways before crossing the street (thanks dad) I somehow survived Amsterdam.  Not only did I survive, I dug deep into my courage reserves and got on a bike myself. 

I joined a Mike's Bike Tour, guided by Stuart, with four other girls from Busabout.  Before I knew what was going on, I was cruising along the canals on a shiny green bicycle.  For the first fifteen minutes I rode in a constant state of panic, wondering why everyone I passed seemed to be totally relaxed and smiling.  Did they not know they were in a potential death zone of two-wheeled vehicles?

Amsterdamage - July 13th

A quick note to check in...

Day three in Amsterdam and I feel like I've been here for weeks.  After a free (!) four hour walking tour around the city, my legs are aching, but today, instead of dodging bikes, I'm going to be joining the hordes and riding one.  But first, heading out into the first sunny day to check out the Van Gogh Museum and get some culture happening before tomorrow, when it's back on the bus and on to Berlin. 

Definitely welcoming suggestions for Berlin, as outside of the famous wall, I know very little about it. 

Pics and details on Amsterdam to come soon.

In Bruges - July 10th

Spotlight: St. Christopher's Inns, Paris - July 9th

St. Christopher's Inns, Paris, is a snazzy hostel loaded up with conveniences.

Where:  159 rue de Crimee, Paris (nearest Metro station is Crimee, also close to Laumiere)

Cost:  I paid 27 euro per night for an 8 bed dorm (Paris is not cheap!)

Perks:  Free breakfast every day from 7:30 - 10:30 (this means Busabouters won't miss a chance to eat before the 8AM bus leaves).  There is also an onsite bar and cafe, Belushi's, running regular food specials - everyday between 12 and 3 you can choose from the daily special, either a starter and a main or a main and a dessert all for 10 euro.  You also get a 10% discount on all food and drink if you are staying at the hostel. 

My favourite features:  Free wireless!  That, and the fact that you can buy almost anything at reception - I got a converter from the US to Europe, and a big sturdy padlock.  I used my shiny new padlock to lock up valuables in one of the steel cages underneath the beds in the room.  But my very favourite thing had to be the privacy curtains on each bed in the spacious dorm room, something I was grateful for when my five male Aussie roommates returned at two AM and subsequently packed up at five.  Each bed also has its own click light and power point, a huge bonus.  Add this to the hostel location, smack on the canal, perfect for having a drink on the balcony.   

The Ring - July 7th

I almost got scammed today.  Here's what happened: 

I was strolling leisurely along the Seine, thinking to myself that storm clouds made Paris look dramatic, whereas they made London look depressing.  I noticed a girl approaching me from the opposite direction, so I stepped aside to let her pass.  Before I reached her, she bent down to examine an object on the ground.  I kept going.

Excess baggage - July 5th

I have been in Paris for about half a day, and I have already had one major revelation. 

I did not need to bring so much stuff.  I packed excess items like 20 pairs of underwear and running shoes.  Fool.  Who am I kidding?  I'm not running on this trip.  And those shoes have to account for at least 1/4 of my bag's weight.  I also have a theory involving a team of elves working under the cloak of darkness with a wheelbarrow full of tiny bricks, but so far this is only speculation.

At Tide's End - Say hello to Lauren - July 5th