Busabout Adventures

A Busabout Pass for the Western Loop will take you to the best of France and Spain.  Cycle through ancient vineyards and salsa dance the night away! Start from any city on the loop and travel at your own pace - stay as long as you like at each stop .... then when you've finished exploring, jump on the next bus and move on to the next destination.  Click on the destinations in the map to find out more...

In Spain’s case, all roads lead to Madrid and, more specifically, to the Puerta del Sol, kilometre zero, the physical and emotional heart of the city. Radiating out from this harried plaza are arms – Calle Mayor, Calle del Arenal, Calle de Preciados, Calle de la Montera and Calle de Alcalá – that stretch into the city.

South of the Puerta del Sol is the oldest part of the city, with the Plaza Mayor to the southwest and the busy streets of the Huertas district to the southeast. North of the plaza is a modern shopping district, and beyond that, the east–west thoroughfare Gran Via and the bohemian barrio (neighbourhood), Chueca. To the west is the stately Palacio Real, while east lies the city’s green lung, El Retiro park. All these areas are easily reached by metro.

Madrid’s ‘Big Three’ – the outstanding Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums – should be the first things on your to-do list.

Museo del Prado
The Prado ((913 30 28 00; http://museoprado.mcu.es; Paseo del Prado s/n; mBanco de España; adult €3, free Sun; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun) is not just the best-known museum in Madrid, it’s one of the world’s most elite art collections. The main focus is on Spanish, Flemish and Italian art from the 15th to 19th centuries, with great coverage of Goya, Velázquez and El Greco. Velázquez’s masterpiece Las Meninas is one of the museum’s prized works. In it, maids of honour attend the daughter of King Felipe IV, and Velázquez himself paints portraits of the queen and king (through whose eyes the scene is witnessed).

Almost the whole southern wing of the 1st floor presents Goya’s works. Others featured  include the Flemish masters Hieronymus Bosch and Peter Paul Rubens, and the Italians Tintoretto, Titian and Raphael.

Guided visits are available; ask for details at the ticket booth.

Centro de Arte Reina Sofía
With a fantastic collection of modern, predominately Spanish art, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía ((914 67 50 62; http://museo
reinasofia.mcu.es; Calle Santa Isabel 52; mAtocha; admission €3, free 2.30-9pm Sat & Sun; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun) showcases Spanish contemporary culture. The exhibition includes Picasso’s legendary Guernica, his protest of the German bombing of the Basque town during the Spanish Civil War in 1937.

The museum also contains further works by Picasso, as well as works by Dalí and the remarkably simple paintings of Miró.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Sitting just opposite the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza ((913 69 01 51; Paseo del Prado 8; mBanco de España; adult €4.80; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun) is a themeless collection of priceless works offering one of the most comprehensive art history lessons you’ll ever have. Starting with medieval religious art, it moves right through to contemporary works. Formerly a private collection, it was purchased by Spain in 1993 for US$300 million.

El Rastro
The city’s main market is El Rastro (mLa Latina; h8am-3pm Sun), a throbbing mass of vendors, browsers, buyers and pickpockets. The madness begins at the Plaza de Cascorro, near La Latina metro stop, and worms its way downhill along the Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores and the streets branching off it.

Palacio Real & Around
Madrid’s 18th-century Palacio Real ((915 42 00 59; Calle de Bailén s/n; mÓpera; adult €9; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun Oct-Mar, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun Apr-Sep) is a lesson in what can happen if you give your interior decorators a free hand. You’ll see some of the most elaborately decorated walls and ceilings imaginable, including the sublime Throne Room. This over-the-top palace hasn’t been used as a royal residence for some time and today is used only for official receptions.

The big white building next door is the cavernous Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena (h9am-9pm), completed in 1992. Behind it is the sprawling Campo del Moro, a pretty park.

Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales
This ornate monastery (Convent of the Barefoot Royals; (915 42 00 59; www.patrimonionacional.es; Plaza de las Descalzas; mSol; adult €5; h10.30am-12.45pm & 4-5.45pm Tue-Thu & Sat, 10.30am-12.45pm Fri, 11am-1.45pm Sun) was founded in 1559 by Juana of Austria, daughter of the Spanish King Carlos I, and became one of Spain’s richest religious houses thanks to gifts from noblewomen.

Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida
Home to Goya’s panteón (tomb), the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida ((915 42 07 22; Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida 5; mPríncipe Pío; admission free; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun) is also one of the artist’s greatest works; the entire ceiling and dome are beautifully painted with religious scenes. The images on the dome depict the miracle of St Anthony.

Parque del Retiro
A Sunday stroll in El Retiro (mRetiro; h7am-midnight summer, 7am-10pm winter) is as much a Madrid tradition as tapas (light snacks) and terrace cafés. Time it right and you may even catch a puppet show during the summer. There are rowing boats for rent at the small pond.

The most popular dance spots are along and around Gran Via. For intimate dancing, head to Chueca or Malasaña, especially Calle de la Palma, which is lined with quirky clubs.

Club entry prices vary wildly, but most charge from €8 to €12, but you can get discounts for arriving early or if you’re a girl (sorry guys). Watch out for discount tickets given out in bars or on the street. At most places, dancing starts at around 1am and lasts until daybreak. Come Thursday through Saturday for the best atmosphere.

Around Gran Via there are a number of places to check out.

El Sol ((915 32 64 90; Calle Jardines 3; mGran Via) Head here for great dancing on weekends.

Palacio Gaviria ((915 26 60 69; Calle del Arenal 9; mSol or Ópera) This is transformed palace to club that’s more costly than most. Thursday is international student night.

Teatro Joy Eslava ((913 66 37 33; www.joy-eslava.com; Calle del Arenal 11; mSol or Ópera) Next to Palacio Gaviria, this is great fun.

El Son ((915 32 32 83; Calle de Victoria 6; mSol) This one has the Latino grooves. Live shows are on from Monday to Thursday.

Kapital ((914 20 29 06; Calle de Atocha 125; mAtocha) If you can’t make up your mind about dance styles, the seven-storey Kapital does the trick. Every floor offers a different mood.

Madrid’s huge metro (www.madrid.es) can reach almost any city spot. It’s quick, clean, relatively safe, and runs from 6am until 2am.

The bus system is also good, but working out the maze of bus lines can be a challenge. Contact EMT ((914 06 88 10; www.emtmadrid.es) for more information.

Emergency
Medical & Fire Emergencies (112
Police (091

Internet Access
Nets ((915 22 20 17; Calle Palma 24; mTribunal; per hr €1.50; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, noon-midnight Sun) To just skim email, you can log on for up to five minutes for free.
Work Center ((913 60 13 95; Calle del Príncipe 1; per hr €2; h24hr)

Laundry
Lavanderia Cervantes ((914 29 92 16; Calle de León 6; mAntón Martín; per load €2; h9am-9pm)

Medical Services
Anglo-American Medical Unit ((914 35 18 23; Calle Conde de Aranda 1; mRetiro) For help in English.
Farmacia del Globo ((913 69 20 00; Plaza Antón Martín 46; mAntón Martín) For help with minor medical problems, ask a pharmacist. This is one of several 24-hour pharmacies.

Money
Using your ATM card will give you low banks exchange rates, though some banks charge an extra fee for ATM use. If you’re desperate, there are plenty of bureaux de change around Puerta del Sol that have rip-off rates but which are open late.

Post
Main post office ((913 96 24 43; Plaza Cibeles; mBanco de España;  h8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat) In the gigantic Palacio de Comunicaciones.

Tourist Information
Municipal tourist office ((913 66 54 77; www.munimadrid.es; Plaza Mayor 3; mSol; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun)
Regional tourist office ((914 29 49 51 or (902 10 00 07; www.madrid.org; Calle del Duque Medinaceli 2; mSevilla; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun)

FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Madrid takes its partying seriously, and festive events are generously sprinkled all over the year’s calendar. In particular look out for:
Día de los Reyes (Three Kings’ Day; 6 Jan) The three kings bring gifts to children and a mammoth parade takes over the city centre.
Fiesta de San Isidro (Festival of St Isidro; 15 May) Madrid’s patron saint is honoured with nonstop processions, parties and bullfights.
Fiesta de Otoño (Autumn Festival; mid-Oct through mid-Nov) Music, dance and theatre take over Madrid during the fantastically cultural weeks of the festival.

Meat lovers prepare your stomachs: Madrid’s specialities include cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cocido madrileño, a hearty stew made of beans and various animals’ innards (it’s tasty, honest). Vege­tarians may be wondering about what local cuisine has to offer them, which is not much. Look out for pastas, salads and bocadillos vegetales (vegetable sandwiches), which usually have cheese.

Lunch hour runs from about 1.30pm until 3.30pm, and dinner starts at 9pm and lasts until late. Before mealtimes, many Madrileños head out for a caña (small beer) and a tapa or two.

Tapas
Oodles of tapas bars fill the barrios of Huertas, Chueca and La Latina. If the place is crowded, that’s a good sign. Sure to be packed, La Casa del Abuelo ((915 21 23 19; Calle Victoria 12; mSol) is famous for its garlicky prawns (€4.35). Cafeteria-style Las Bravas ((915 32 26 20; Calle Espoz y Mina 13; mSol) is known for its patented version of its spicy salsa brava (a creamy sauce made with mayo and hot pepper); slather it over fried potatoes or Spanish tortillas.

Sierra Ángel ((915 31 01 26; Calle Gravina 11; mChueca) Munchers at this classic tapas bar spill onto Plaza de Chueca with their tapas and drinks.

La Chata ((913 66 14 58; Calle Cava Baja 24; mLa Latina) It has a great cheese plate (€11) and bullfighter-themed décor.

Cafés
Café Comercial ((915 21 65 55; Glorieta de Bilbao 7; mBilbao) You can get a mean coffee and plenty of ambience at this café, a city classic. Café de Ruiz ((914 46 12 32; Calle Ruiz 11; mBilbao) This cosy café looks like it was lifted out of a 1930s movie, with marble tables, velvet-covered seats and a welcoming attitude.

Mamá Inés ((915 23 23 33; www.mamaines.com; Calle de Hortaleza 22; mChueca) Popular with gay men – by day get delicious pastries and all the goss on where that night’s hot spot will be.

Restaurants
La Mallorquina ((915 21 12 01; Puerta del Sol 8; mSol; pastries around €1.50) Start the day sweet with a throng of white-jacketed waiters serving up pastries, truffles and candies.

La Gloria de Montera ((915 23 44 07; Calle de Caballero de Gracia 10; mGran Via; menú, or fixed price lunch €6.60) For sit-down fare, there’s no defeating La Gloria. It’s oh-so-stylish, oh-so-cheap, and oh-so-popular.

Cuevas El Secreto ((915 31 82 91; Calle de Barcelona 2; mSol; h6.30pm-2am; mains €4-8) This tavern-styled place serves tasty grilled meat and a few basic tapas.

La Finca de Susana ((913 69 35 57; Calle de Arlaban 4; mSevilla; menú €7) Swish Susana serves a mix of Spanish and international fare to a professional-looking crowd.

La Trucha ((914 29 58 33; Calle de Mañuel Fernández y González 3; mains €6-11) Head to this classic restaurant for fish, traditional dishes and tasty tapas.

Patatus ((915 32 61 29; Calle Fuencarral 98; mBilbao; to share €9-16) Open late, this is the place for post-partying gorge on junk food.

Bazaar ((915 23 39 05; Calle de la Libertad 21; mChueca; menú €7) For real food, the funky, fusion Bazaar is unbeatable.

Omertá ((917 01 02 42; Calle de Gravina 17; mChueca; menú €7.50) Bare brick walls and a tall ceiling give this pizzeria the feel of an old warehouse.

The entertainment bible is the Guía del Ocio, a weekly magazine sold at newsstands for €1. Highlights are given in English at the back. The best gay guide is Shanguide, which you can pick up for free in bars around town.

Live Music
FLAMENCO
Madrid is a good place to see professional interpretations of this Andalucían art. Most shows are set up like a dinner theatre and are squarely aimed at tourists, but the quality is generally top-notch. One of the cheapest shows is Las Tablas ((915 42 05 20; Plaza de España 9; mEspaña; admission €12-15; h7pm-late, nightly show 10.30pm).

JAZZ
Café Central ((913 694 143; www.cafecentralmadrid.com; Plaza del Angel 10; mAntón Martín; admission €10-12) and Café Populart ((914 29 84 07; www.populart.es; Calle de la Huertas 22; mAntón Martín; admission free) are two of the best locales for live jazz. Smoky, crowded cafés, that are the apt mood for soulful melodies.

ROCK
Sala Caracol ((915 27 35 94; Calle de Bernardino Obregón 18; mEmbajadores) This temple to variety hosts a different style every night of the week.

Galileo Galilei ((915 34 75 57; Calle Galileo 100; mIslas Filipinas) It has been known to stage all from comedy acts to magic shows, though its strength is up-and-coming bands.

La Riviera ((913 65 24 15; Paseo Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto; mPuerta de Angel) A club and concert venue, it has a pretty Art Deco interior and open-air concerts in summer.

Theatre & Opera  
Teatro Real ((915 16 06 06; www.teatro-real.com; Plaza de Oriente; mÓpera) Madrid’s sumptuous opera house is the city’s grandest stage.

Teatro de la Zarzuela ((915 24 54 00; Calle de Jovellanos 4; mBanco de España) Not as fancy as Teatro Real but well worth a visit, this is the best place to see zarzuela, a very Spanish mixture of dance, music and theatre.

For tiled bars and bullfighter motifs, walk the Huertas barrio’s streets, mainly around Plaza de Santa Ana. For gay-friendly locales, see the streets around Plaza de Chueca. Malasaña caters to a grungy crowd, while La Latina has chirpy, no-frills bars that have atmosphere each night of the week. In summer, go to the outdoor cafés in the city’s plazas.

Bars
Straggling down a stairway passage to Calle de Segovia the Café del Nuncio ((913 66 09 06; Calle Segovia 9; mLa Latina) has several cosy levels inside and an outdoor terraza. Nearby is the mythic Chocolatería de San Ginés ((913 65 65 46; Pasadizo San Ginés 5; mSol or Ópera) where you can end the night (it’s open until 7am!) with an eye-opening dose of syrupy hot chocolate.

Wander down the Calle de la Cava Baja for tonnes of options, including El Viajero ((913 66 90 64; Plaza de la Cebada 11; mLa Latina; tapas €3.50-8), where you can get dinner downstairs, or a great view from the rooftop terrace upstairs.

Cervecería Alemana ((914 29 70 33; Plaza de Santa Ana 6; mAntón Martín or Sol; hclosed Aug) This classic is famous for its cold, frothy beers and tasty tapas.

Viva Madrid ((914 29 36 40; www.barvivamadrid.com; Calle de Manuel Fernandez y González 7; mSol) Tapas and beer are the staples at this landmark with a beautifully tiled bar.

Areia ((913 10 03 07; www.areiachillout.com; Calle de Hortaleza 92; mChueca) The place to chill amidst its Arabian-style décor.

Finnegan’s ((913 10 05 21; Plaza de las Salesas 9; mChueca; h1pm-2am) This is a friendly pub full of regulars.

Café Pepe Botella ((915 22 43 09; Calle San Andrés 12; mBilbao or Tribunal) Funky, it has velvet benches and marble-topped tables.

Museo Chicote ( (915 32 67 37; Gran Via 12; mGran Via) This city classic has a lounge atmosphere late at night and a stream of small-time famous faces all day.

Gay & Lesbian Venues  
Chueca is Madrid’s lively, gay-friendly neighbourhood, and you’ll find gay and lesbian bars and clubs on nearly every street, though some of the bigger-name gay dance clubs are along Gran Via.

Ohm ((915 41 35 00; Plaza del Callao 4; mCallao) The weekend party hosted by Sala Bash is a hit on the gay and straight scenes.

Cool ((915 42 34 39; Calle de Isabel la Católica 6; mSanto Domingo) Nearby, Cool guarantees a sexy night for a well-heeled crowd.