Old World charm, magnificent architecture and ancient customs make this one of the most fascinating regions of the World.
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| Population : 14,600 |
Český Krumlov, in Bohemia’s deep south, is one of the most picturesque towns in Europe, a little like a miniature Prague. It has a stunning castle above the Vltava River, an old town square and hordes of tourists, but all on a smaller scale – you can walk from one side of town to the other in 10 minutes. In recent years or so Krumlov has become a huge hit with backpackers, who flock here in summer to enjoy the laid-back hostels, lively bars, cheap beer and riverside picnic spots.
Krumlov’s appearance has remained almost unchanged since the 18th century. The old town is almost encircled by a looping bend of the Vltava River, watched over by the chateau sprawling along a ridge above the west bank, its ornately decorated tower looking like a space rocket designed by Hans Christian Andersen.
Arriving by bus from České Budějovice, get off at the Špičák bus stop, the first in town. The train station is 1.5km north of the old town centre; bus Nos 1, 2 and 3 go from the station to the Špičák bus stop.
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Sights
You can wander through the courtyards and gardens of fairytale Český Krumlov Castle ((380 704 721; adult/concession 150/80Kč; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug; 9am-5pm Apr, May, Sep & Oct) for free; guided tour No 1 takes in the over-the-top Renaissance and baroque apartments that the aristocratic Rožmberk and Schwarzenberg families once called home. The Castle Tower (adult/concession 30/20Kč) offers a superb view over the town.
Across the river is Nám Svornosti, the old town square, ringed by pleasant outdoor cafés. Nearby is the Regional Museum (Horní 152; adult/concession 60/30Kč; h10am-5pm May-Sep; 10am-6pm Jul & Aug; 9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 1-4pm Sat & Sun Apr & Oct-Dec), with a surprisingly interesting collection that includes folk art, archaeology and a model of the town as it was in 1800.
The big attraction on a hot summer day is just messing about on the river. You can rent canoes, rafts and rubber rings from various places, including Maleček ((380 712 508; Rooseveltova 28; half-hour canoe rental 300Kč; h9am-5pm). Vltava ((380 711 988; Kájovská 62; h9am-noon & 12.30-5pm) rents bikes (320Kč a day) and organises horse riding (250Kč an hour).
Getting around
Local buses (26Kč, 50 minutes, seven daily) and trains (46Kč, one hour, eight daily) run to/from České Budějovice, where you can change for onward travel to Brno, Plzeň or Austria.
Information
Infocentrum ((380 704 622; www.ckrumlov.cz; nám Svornosti 2; per 5 min 5Kč; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug; 9am-7pm Jun & Sep; 9am-6pm Apr, May & Oct; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar) Official tourism and transport information, books and maps.
Unios Tourist Service ((380 712 219; www.unios.cz; Castle Courtyard; per min 1Kč; h9am-6pm, Internet café 9am-9pm) Tourist information and Internet café.
Eating
Cikánská jizba ((380 717 585; Dlouhá 31; mains 70-110Kč; h3-11pm Mon-Thu, 3pm-midnight Fri & Sat) Hearty Czech and Roma grub in a crowded, convivial vault, with live gypsy music at weekends.
Krčma v Šatlavské ((380 713 344; Horní 157; mains 100-200Kč; h11am-11pm) Pork and beef barbecued at the fireplace and wine served in rustic earthenware beakers are trademarks of this atmospheric, candle-lit cellar.
Self-caterers will find a handy potraviny (minimarket; Latrán 55; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) near the castle entrance.
For outdoor boozing sessions with a view, Krčma Barbakán (Horní 26; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu,
noon-midnight Fri & Sat) has a splendid terrace perched high above the river. M-Club (cnr Rybářská & Plešivecké schody; h4pm-2am) offers pounding rock music and a pool table.
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