Busabout Adventures

Everybody gets lost in Venice. How can you not in a city built on 117 islands with 150-odd canals and 400 bridges?(Only three of these cross the Grand Canal: the Rialto, the Accademia and, at the train station, the Scalzi.)

It gets worse: Venetian addresses are almost meaningless to all but local posties. Instead of a street and civic number they often consist of no more than the district (Venice is divided into six districts – Cannaregio, Castello, San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo and Santa Croce) followed by a long number. Some, however, do have street names and where possible we’ve provided them. You’ll still need to know that a street can be a calle, ruga, salizzada, fondamenta or a rio terrà. A canal is a rio and a square a campo (Piazza San Marco is Venice’s only piazza).

The most helpful points of reference are the train station in the northwest and Piazza San Marco in the south. The signposted path between the two – the nearest Venice has to a main drag – is a good half-hour walk.
Forming a land barrier between the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea, the Lido is a vaporetto ride away from Piazza San Marco.

A good way to whet your sightseeing appetite is to take vaporetto 1 along the Grand Canal, which is lined with rococo Gothic, Moorish and Renaissance palaces. Alight at Piazza San Marco, itself Venice’s most famous sight.

Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square)
Flanked by the arcaded Procuratie Vecchie and Procuratie Nuove, the piazza is filled for much of the day with balloon-vendors, tourists, pigeons and policemen. While you’re taking it all in, you might see the bronze mori (Moors) strike the bell of the 15th-century Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower).

But it’s to the Basilica di San Marco (St Mark’s Basilica; 041 522 52 05; Piazza San Marco; admission free; 9.45am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun) that all eyes are drawn. An architectural salad of spangled spires, Byzantine domes, mosaics and marble, it was originally built to house the remains of St Mark. According to legend, his body was stolen from Alexandria in Egypt and smuggled to Venice in a barrel of pork. He’s since been reburied several times, his body is now resting under the high altar. The original chapel was destroyed by fire in AD 932 and a new basilica was consecrated in its place in 1094. For the next 500 years it was a work in progress as successive doges added mosaics and embellishments looted from the East. The bronze horses above the entrance are replicas of statues ‘liberated’ from Constantinople in the Fourth Crusade (1204); the originals are in the Galleria (admission €3; 9.45am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar). Behind the main altar the Pala d’Oro (admission €1.50; 9.45am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun May-Sep, to 4.30pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) is a stunning gold altarpiece decorated with priceless jewels.

The basilica’s freestanding 99m campanile (bell tower; adult/child €6/3; 9am-7pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, to 9pm Jul-Aug, 9.30am-4.15pm Nov-Mar) dates to the 10th century although it suddenly collapsed on 14 July 1902 and had to be rebuilt.

Palazzo Ducale
The official residence of the doges from the 9th century and the seat of the Republic’s government, the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace; 041 271 59 11; Piazzetta di San Marco; admission with Museum Pass/Card; 9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) also housed Venice’s prisons. On the 2nd floor, the massive Sala del Maggior Consiglio is dominated by Tintoretto’s Paradiso (Paradise), one of the world’s largest oil paintings, measuring 22m by 7m.

The Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) connects the palace to an additional wing of the city dungeons. Named after the sighs the prisoners emitted en route, it owes its romantic image to Giacomo Casanova who, for a brief period, languished in the cells.

Galleria dell’Accademia
One of Venice’s top galleries, the Galleria dell’Accademia (041 522 22 47; Dorsoduro 1050; adult/EU citizens 18-25 yrs €6.50/3.25; 8.15am-2pm Mon, to 7.15pm Tue-Sun) traces the development of Venetian art from the 14th to the 18th century. You’ll find works by Bellini, Titian, Carpaccio, Tintoretto, Giorgione and Veronese.

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
For something more contemporary, visit the Collezione Peggy Guggenheim (041 240 54 11; www.guggenheim-venice.it; Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701; adult/student €10/5; 10am-6pm Wed-Mon). Housed in the American heiress’ former home, the spellbinding collection includes works by, among others, Bacon, Pollock, Picasso and Dalí. In the sculpture garden you’ll find the graves of Peggy and her dogs.

Churches
Scene of the annual Festa del Redentore, the Chiesa del Redentore (Campo del SS Redentore 194; admission €2.50; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) was built by Palladio to commemorate the end of the great plague in 1577. It’s on the southern island of Giudecca.

Guarding the entrance to the Grand Canal, the 17th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute (041 522 55 58; Campo della Salute 1/b; sacristy admission €1.50; 9am-noon & 3.30-6pm) contains works by Tintoretto and Titian, arguably the greatest of Venice’s artists. His masterpiece, the Assunta (Assumption, 1518), hangs in the Chiesa di Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari (Campo dei Frari, San Polo 3004; admission €2.50; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 1-6pm Sun), the same church in which he’s buried.

The Gothic Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e Paolo (041 523 59 13; Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo; admission €2.50; 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat & 1-7pm Sun), is famous for its 15th-century stained-glass window, the largest in Venice.

The Lido
Guarding Venice from the Adriatic Sea, the Lido is a thin strip of land that divides the lagoon from the open sea. Unless you’re on the Lido for the Venice Film Festival, the main reason to visit here is for the beach. Be warned, though, that it gets impossibly crowded during the summer months. The Lido’s accessible by vaporetto 1, LN, 51, 52, 61 and 62.

Islands
Murano is the home of Venetian glass and Burano, with its cheery pastel-coloured houses, is renowned for its lace. Torcello, the republic’s original island settlement, was abandoned due to malaria and now counts no more than 80 residents. Torcello’s Byzantine cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta (041 270 24 64; Piazza Torcello; admission €3; 10.30am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb), is the oldest cathedral in Venice.

Vaporetto LN services the islands from the vaporetto station at Fondamente Nuove in the northeast of the city.

ACTIVITIES
If you gotta go, be prepared to pay – official rates for a gondola start at €73 (€91 from 8pm to 8am) for a 50-minute ride. Rates are per gondola (licensed for six people).

FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Carnevale Masked ribaldry in Venice’s ritzy knees-up in the 10 days before Ash Wednesday.

Palio delle Quattro Repubbliche Marinare Venice, Amalfi, Genoa and Pisa take turns to host this historic regatta.

Festa del Redentore Celebrations on the third weekend in July culminate in a spectacular fireworks display.

Regata Storica Costumed parades precede gondola races on the Grand Canal; on the first Sunday in September.

Venice Biennale A major, year-long exhibition of international visual arts staged every even-numbered year.

Venice International Film Festival Italy’s top film fest is held on the Lido every September.

The city’s main mode of public transport are vaporetti. Useful routes are:
LN From Fondamenta Nuove to Murano, Burano and the Lido.
T Runs between Burano and Torcello.
No 1 From Piazzale Roma to the train station and down the Grand Canal to San Marco and the Lido.
No 17 Car ferry between Tronchetto and the Lido.
No 82 All stops on the Grand Canal plus Piazzale Roma, Tronchetto and Giudecca.

Tickets, available at landing stations and Vela outlets, are expensive: €5 for 90 minutes unlimited travel or €10.50/22 for 24/72 hours.

To cross the Grand Canal where there’s no nearby bridge take a traghetti (public gondola; €0.50 per crossing).

Emergency
Police station (Questura; 041 271 55 11; Fondamenta di San Lorenzo, Castello 5053)

Internet Access
There are tons of internet cafés in Venice, none cheap. The airport is a wi-fi hotspot.

e copie d@ Toni (Calle delle Bande, Castello 5268; per hr €7; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm)
Internet Point San Pantalon (Calle dei Preti Crosera, Dorsoduro 3812a; per hr €9; 9.15am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.15am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Sat)
Internet Point Santo Stefano (Campo Santo Stefano 2958; per hr €9; 10.15am-8pm)
Planet Internet (Rio Terrà San Leonardo, Cannaregio 1520; per hr €8; 9am-11pm)

Laundry
Speedy Wash (Rio Terrà San Leonardo, Cannaregio 1520; 8kg wash/dry €5/3; 9am-10pm)

Medical Services
24-hour pharmacies are listed in Un Ospite a Venezia (A Guest in Venice), a free guide available in many hotels.
Ospedale Civile (041 529 41 11; Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo 6777)

Money
There are plenty of banks (most of which have ATMs) near Ponte di Rialto and around San Marco.
American Express (041 520 08 44; Salizzada San Moisè 1471; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Travelex (041 528 73 58; Piazza San Marco 142; 8.50am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun)

Post
Post office (Salizzada del Fontego dei Tedeschi)

Tourist Information
Pick up Un Ospite di Venezia at hotels or the useful Leo Bussola guide at tourist offices: the Azienda di Promozione Turistica (central information line 041 529 87 11, www.turismovenezia.it) has offices across town:
Lido (Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta 6a; 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Jun-Sep)
Marco Polo airport (Arrivals Hall; 9.30am-7.30pm)
Piazza San Marco (Piazza San Marco 71f; 9am-3.30pm Mon-Sat)
Piazzale Roma (9.30am-1pm & 1.30-4.30pm) In the basement of the car park over the road from the bus ticket office.
Train station (8am-6.30pm)
Venice Pavilion (10am-6pm) Near Piazza San Marco.

At Venetian prices you’ll be glad of the many affordable self-catering/snack options. For a sit-down meal, avoid the obvious tourist-traps near the big landmarks and duck down the side streets.

Venetian specialities include risi e bisi (pea and rice soup), sarde di saor (fried sardines marinated in vinegar and onions) and fragolino (a fragrant strawberry-flavoured wine).

Quick Eats
All’Arco (041 520 56 66; Calle dell’Arco, San Polo 436; panini €3.50; 7.30am-9pm Mon-Sat) Popular with locals, this tiny osteria serves wonderful, fresh panini, a range of cicheti (bar snacks) and smooth wine by the glass.

Il Doge (041 523 46 07; Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 3058/a; ice cream €2; 10-2am Feb-Nov) A sweet gelateria on Campo Santa Margherita.

Il Laboratorio (340 600 79 74; Castello 6672; snacks from €1.80) This characterless neon-lit takeaway serves some of the best fried nibbles in Venice. Try the arancini (fried rice balls stuffed with ragù) and you’ll soon get the idea.

Pizza al Volo (041 522 54 30; Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2944; pizza from €4; 11.30am-4pm & 5pm-1.30am) Many a drinking session has been interrupted by a brief pizza-stop here. Slices are sail-sized and the family pizzas just that – enough for three or four.

Rosa Salva (041 522 79 49; Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo, Castello 6779; Thu-Tue) Stop by this historic café for sensational fritalle (fried pastry puffs filled with zabaglione or cream). Then pop next door to the gelateria for an ice cream.

Restaurants
Osteria ai 4 Ferri (041 520 69 78; Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2754/a; 1st/2nd courses €9/15; Mon-Sat) Run by a young crew, the 4 Ferri (4 Irons) enjoys a deserved reputation for top-notch seafood. There’s spaghetti con il nero di seppia (with cuttlefish ink) and grilled tuna, baccalà and bream – all of it swimming in flavour. Reservations are required.

Vino Vino (041 523 70 27; Calle della Veste, San Marco 2007; 1st/2nd courses €6/10; 10.30am-midnight Wed-Mon) An atmospheric osteria with a daily menu of local fare and a 350-label wine list. Seafood is a regular on the blackboard and is usually very good.

Ae Oche (041 524 11 61; Calle del Tintor, Santa Croce 1552a/b; pizzas/1st/2nd courses from €5/6/8) A hybrid of Tex-Mex décor and Italian food, this is one of Venice’s busiest pizzerie. You’ll find all the usual toppings plus a range of pastas and meat courses.

Antica Trattoria Bandierette (041 522 06 19; Castello 6671; 1st/2nd courses €7/9; closed Mon dinner & Tue) An unassuming neighbourhood trattoria known for its excellent seafood. The menu depends on the day’s catch but for non-fish eaters there’s a selection of fail-safe pastas and mains.

La Zucca (041 524 15 70; Calle del Tentor, Santa Croce 1762; 1st/2nd courses from €7/12.50; Mon-Sat) A wonderful, unpretentious little restaurant in an out-of-the-way spot, ‘The Pumpkin’ serves a range of innovative dishes prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Bookings recommended.

Self-Catering
For fruit and veg, as well as deli items, head for the markets near the Rialto bridge, or on the Rio Terrà San Leonardo. There are also several supermarkets: Punto Sma (Campo Santa Margherita), Billa (Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3660) and Coop (Fondamenta di Santa Chiara, Piazzale Roma 506a).

Tickets for most events are available from Vela (041 24 24; www.hellovenezia.it) kiosks in front of the train station, at Piazzale Roma and at the Venice Pavilion tourist office.

Gran Teatro La Fenice (041 78 6511; www.teatrolafenice.it; Campo San Fantin, San Marco 1977; tickets from €20) One of Italy’s most important opera houses, the Fenice was destroyed by fire in 1996. It’s now back in full swing after reopening in 2003.

SHOPPING
Classic gift options include Murano glass, lace from Burano, Carnevale masks and carta marmorizzata (marbled paper). There are any number of shops selling these but for the best deal go to the source. Note, however, that genuine Burano lace is expensive and much of the cheaper stuff is imported from the Far East.

The main shopping area is located between San Marco and the Rialto; for designer clobber head to the area west of Piazza San Marco.

Utz (360 32 53 33; Castello 6400) Named after a Bruce Chatwin book, Utz is an Aladdin’s cave of antique jewellery, glass, furniture and odds and ends. Prices are accessible if not cheap.

Venice’s drinking scene is concentrated on and around Campo Santa Margherita.

Café Blue (041 71 02 27; Salizzada San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3778; Mon-Sat) The most pub-like of Venice’s trinity of ‘coloured cafés (rosso, blue and noir), Café Blue is a dark, woody spot for a pint or two in like-minded company. Free internet is a cool bonus.

Café Noir (041 71 09 25; Calle San Pantalon 3805) A mixed crowd of tourists, trendies and bohemians hang out at the Café Noir. During the day you can grab a coffee and read the paper; at night the funk goes on the stereo, the volume rises and the windows steam up.

Chet Baker (041 523 87 27; Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 3684) A small den of a bar, Chet Baker would be the archetypal smoky jazz joint if smoking were not banned in public places. It still manages to catch the mood with a cool jazz soundtrack and a welcoming vibe. DJs on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights.

Il Caffé (041 528 79 98; Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 2963) A favourite of international students, Il Caffé is better known as Café Rosso because of its red frontage. Good-looking bar staff serve a mean sprizze (an aperitif of prosecco, soda and a bitter mixer).

Orange (041 523 47 40; Campo Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro 3054) The latest addition to Campo Santa Margherita’s buzzing bar scene, Orange sports a contemporary look – bright orange walls, surrealist Miró prints, MTV – and a young, multinational crowd.

Paradiso Perduto (041 72 05 81; Fondamenta della Misericordia, Cannaregio 2540; Tue-Sun) Queer-friendly and flamboyant, this restaurant-cum-club heats up late but when the DJs ratchet up the decibels it jives. There’s live music most weekends, often jazz, and a full food menu (1st/2nd courses €10/15).

Torrefazione Costarica (041 716 371; Strada Nuovo, Cannaregio 1337) Connoisseurs come here for Venice’s best, and cheapest, coffee (espresso €0.70, cappuccino €1.10).