The birthplace of paella, the home of the Holy Grail and the host of the 2007 America’s Cup, Valencia is a friendly, if slightly chaotic city. Hugging the now dry Río Turia (whose riverbed has been transformed into a wonderfully verdant park), Valencia may be Spain’s third-largest city, but it’s an extremely walkable place that combines old and new with effortless charm.
Head to the Barrio del Carmen, Valencia’s oldest quarter, for quirky shops and the best nightlife. Other key areas are the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, the Plaza de la Reina and the Plaza de la Virgen.
Sights
Don’t leave Valencia without making a visit to the Romanesque-Gothic-Baroque-Renaissance cathedral (Plaza Reina; 7.30am-8pm, obligatory guided tour 10am-6.30pm). Most interesting is the Holy Grail Chapel, which houses the chalice Christ supposedly used in the Last Supper. It’s the only Holy Grail recognised by the Vatican. The tour costs €3.
Valencia’s architectural pride and joy, the stunning Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (90 210 00 31; www.cac.es; adult €7.20-28.80, student €5.60-21.60; 10am-9pm, check individual museum times) is a complex of museums including L’Oceanográfic aquarium, the Prínipe Felipe science museum, L’Hemisféric IMAX theatre, L’Umbracle covered garden and the Palau Reina Sofía performing arts centre. Bus 35 goes from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
Valencia’s beach, the Playa de la Malvarrosa, lies east of town and is lined with a pretty promenade. Get there on the tram.
Getting around
EMT (96 352 83 99) buses run until about 10pm, with night services until around 1am. Bus 8 connects the bus station with Plaza Ayuntamiento.
The high-speed tram leaves from the FGV tram station, 500m north of the cathedral, at the Pont de Fusta. It’s a pleasant way to get to the beach, the paella restaurants of Las Arenas and the port. Metro lines primarily serve the outer suburbs.
Information
Ono Centro de Internet (96 328 19 02; Calle San Vicente 22; per hr €2-3; 9-1am)
Post office (96 351 23 70; Plaza del Ayuntamiento 24; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat)
Tourist offices Calle Paz (96 398 64 22; www.turisvalencia.es; Calle Paz 48; 9am-2.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri); Plaza de la Reina (96 315 39 31; Plaza de la Reina 19; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
Eating
For authentic paella, head for Las Arenas, where a strip of restaurants serve up the real stuff for about €12 per person.
One of Spain’s prettiest markets, Valencia’s Mercado Central (Plaza Mercado; 8am-2.30pm) is a feast of colours and smells, with nearly 1000 stallholders crammed under the market’s modernist glass domes.
Bar El Kiosko (96 391 01 59; Calle Derechos 38; mains €1.25-6.25) Tasty fried fish and tapas are the staples at this scruffy café, which has a few tables on the sunny plaza.
La Utielana (96 352 94 14; Calle San Andrés 4; mains €3.75-6.75) Amazingly cheap stews, rice and fish dishes mean there’s always a line at this chaotic yet homey spot. Take a number and wait to savour the local flavour.
Nam (96 351 48 37; Calle San Andrés 4; mains €4-8) A loud cafetería serving cheap sandwiches, salads and burgers. Next door to La Utielana.
Drinking
Much of the action centres on Barrio del Carmen and caters for every taste, from grunge to glam.
Café San Jaume (96 391 24 01; Calle Caballeros 51) A stalwart of Carmen’s bar scene, with lots of room upstairs and a particularly fine terrace for eyeing up the characters on Calle Caballeros.
Lounge Café-Bar (96 391 80 94; Calle Estamiñería Vieja 2) This popular international hang-out has comfy sofas and free internet. Good snacks too.
Radio City (96 391 41 51; Santa Teresa 19) Dance to salsa, house and cheesy pop at this popular hall. There’s occasionally live flamenco.
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