Busabout Adventures

Leaving the train station, cross the con­course to the bus stop for bus No 3, 9 or 10 to central Piazza Gramsci, then walk along Via dei Termini (10 min to reach Piazza del Campo). Visitors’ cars aren’t permitted in the centre.
Internet Train (Via di Città 121 & Via di Pantaneto 57; per hr €5)
Libreria Senese ((0577 28 08 45; libreria_senese@
libero.it; Via di Città 62/66) Fantastic bookshop with English books, and a professional-standard ESL section.
Police Headquarters ((0577 20 11 11; Via del Castoro 23)
Post office (Piazza Matteotti 1) North of the centre.
Tourist office ((0577 28 05 51; www.terresiena.it; Piazza del Campo 56; h9am-7pm) Can explain the myriad tickets for combinations of Siena’s sights.

Siena’s uniquely scalloped Piazza del Campo (simply, Il Campo) has been the city’s focus for 700 years. The piazza’s base is formed by the nobly proportioned Palazzo Pubblico (town hall; admission/tower/both €5.50/6.50/9.50; h10am-7pm mid-Mar–end Oct, 10am-5.30pm end Nov–mid-Feb, to 6.30pm otherwise), also known as Palazzo Com­munale, counted among Italy’s most graceful Gothic buildings. Climb the 102m-high Torre del Mangia for a pigeon’s-eye view of proceedings, and those pretty red roofs.

The spectacular Duomo (admission free) is another Gothic masterpiece. Begun in 1196, extravagant expansion plans were stymied by the niggling arrival of the Black Death (1348), which claimed nearly 70,000 of Siena’s 100,000 people. Venice aside, Siena has the most striking cathedral interior in northern Italy. The striped marble of the exterior is, incredibly, maintained throughout – a noteworthy distinction from comparable cathedrals; Florence’s Duomo, despite dramatic external decoration, is bland inside.

The Romanesque lower section has carvings by Giovanni Pisano, and the inlaid-marble floor features 56 biblical panels. The battistero (admission €2.50; h9am-7.30pm mid-Mar–Sep, 9am-6pm Oct, 10am-1pm & 2.30-5pm Nov–mid-Mar) behind the cathedral has a Gothic façade and 15th-century frescoes.
Want to see the preserved head of a saint? Head for the Chiesa di San Domenico and the Santuario di Santa Caterina (shop: (0577 28 68 48; Piazza San Domenico; admission free; h7.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm) inside, where St Catherine’s is displayed. The church itself is tranquil and airy, and friendly Federico Muzzi in the souvenir shop sells some funky Christian kitsch.

The ubiquitous Ciao and Spizzico have outlets on Il Campo. Also try:

Permalico ((0577 411 05; www.permalico.net; Via di Camollia 193; light meals €5-8; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A great little medieval cavern/tavern, complete with vaulted ceilings, serving simple Tuscan grub. A fine place to grab a tasty panini and a cold beer.

Bandierino ((0577 28 22 17; Piazza del Campo 66; pizza/pasta €8/10; hlunch & dinner) The best if you must eat on Il Campo. The pastas and risotti are excellent – particularly variations ai funghi porcini (with rich, musty mushrooms); worth opting for over the popular (and cheaper) pizzas. Staff are brisk, but amenable.

Osteria di Calzoleria ((0577 28 90 10; Via di Calzoleria 12; meals €15-20; hdinner) Fantastic hole-in-the-wall on a winding street off Il Campo with evocative Tuscan fare, particularly its contorni (vegetable side dishes); they make a great vegetarian meal. Splurge here, slurping some ribollita or twirling pici (the traditional Sienese ‘thick’ pasta) round yer fork.