A Gothic gem, Siena is one of Italy’s most enchanting towns. Its walled centre – a beautifully preserved warren of dark lanes punctuated by medieval palazzi, piazzas and churches – is a lovely place to pass a few idle hours. Action centres on Piazza del Campo (Il Campo), the sloping square that serves as a communal sun bed to scores of day-trippers.
According to legend, Siena was founded by the sons of Remus. In the Middle Ages its dramatic rise – on the back of banking skill – caused both political and cultural friction with Florence. Painters of the Sienese School (most notably the 13th to 15th centuries) produced significant works of art, and the city was home to saints Catherine and Benedict.
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Orientation
The centre’s main streets – the Banchi di Sopra, Via di Città and Banchi di Sotto – curve around Il Campo. Visitors’ cars aren’t permitted in the centre.
Sights
Ever since the 14th century the scalloped Piazza del Campo has been the city’s focus. Forming the base of the piazza, the Palazzo Pubblico (or Palazzo Comunale) is a magnificent example of Sienese Gothic architecture. Soaring above it, the 102m Torre del Mangia (admission €6; 10am-7pm mid-Mar–end Oct, to 4pm Nov–mid-Mar) was completed in 1297. On the ground floor the Museo Civico (0577 22 62 30; admission €7; 10am-7pm mid-Mar–end Oct, to 5.30pm Nov–mid-Feb, to 6.30pm rest of the year) houses a rich collection of Sienese art.
The spectacular Duomo (0577 473 21; admission €3; 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5.30pm Sun Mar-end May, 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-6.30pm Sun Jun-end Aug, 10.30am-7.30pm daily Sep-end Oct, 10.30am-6pm Mon-Sat Nov-end Feb) is another Gothic masterpiece. Begun in 1196 it was completed in 1215, although work continued well into the 13th century. Inside, it’s the 14th-century inlaid-marble floor (€6; 10.30am-7.30pm mid-Jun–mid Oct) that’s the highlight. Other noteworthy features include Donatello’s bronze of St John the Baptist, and statues of St Jerome and Mary Magdalene by Bernini.
North of the cathedral, the Battistero (Baptistry; Piazza San Giovanni; admission €3; 9am-8pm Jun-end Aug, to 7pm Sep-May) has a Gothic façade and a rich frescoed interior.
On the western edge of the walled city, the Chiesa di San Domenico (Piazza San Domenico 1; admission free; 7.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm) is the last resting place of St Catherine’s head. You’ll find it above the altar in the Cappella di Santa Caterina.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Siena’s great annual event is the Palio (2 July and 16 August), a pageant culminating in a bareback horse race round Il Campo. The city is divided into 17 contrade (districts), of which 10 are chosen annually to compete for the palio (silk banner). The only rule in the three-lap race is that jockeys can’t tug the reins of other horses.
Information
Libreria Senese (0577 28 08 45; Via di Cittá 62-66) Bookshop with English books and newspapers
Police station (Questura; 0577 20 11 11; Via del Castoro 23)
Post office (Piazza Matteotti 1)
Tourist office (0577 28 05 51; www.terresiena.it; Piazza del Campo 56; 9am-7pm)
Wash & Dry (Via di Pantaneto 38; wash/dry €3.50/3.50; 8am-10pm) Laundrette.
Eating
The ubiquitous Ciao and Spizzico have outlets on Il Campo.
Osteria Titti (0577 480 87; Via di Camollia 193; 1st/2nd courses €6/7.50; Sun-Fri) A down-to-earth neighbourhood trat that specialises in stolid Tuscan fare at honest prices. Order salsiccia toscana con fagioli for a plate of bangers and beans.
La Chiacchiera (0577 28 06 31; Costa di Sant’Antonio 4; 1st/2nd courses €4/6) With its rustic wooden tables and stone walls this is a quaint spot. Typical of its seasonal food are the autumnal pici boscaiola (thick spaghetti with mushrooms). In the summer there’s outdoor seating.
Osteria di Calzoleria (0577 28 90 10; Via di Calzoleria 12; 1st/2nd courses €7/11; dinner) A lively place for a bowl of ribollita and other regional classics. The excellent contorni (side dishes) are ideal for vegetarians.
Drinking
Key Largo (0577 23 63 39; Via Rinaldini 17) The 1st-floor balcony of this innocuous little bar is a great place to down cocktails while surveying the masses on Il Campo below.
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