The Basque Country’s most stylish city, San Sebastián (Donostia in Basque) has the air of an upscale resort, complete with an idyllic location on the shell-shaped Bahía de la Concha.
Head to the buzzing Parte Vieja for tempting tapas bars and restaurants showing off the best of Basque cuisine, or stroll the stately boulevards of the newer districts to soak up San Sebastián’s refined air.
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Sights
San Sebastián’s beautiful city beaches, Playa de la Concha and Playa de Ondarreta, are popular spots year-round.
The paseo stretching along the waterfront is perfect for strolling, and at the far western end of it you’ll find Eduardo Chillida’s renowned sculpture Los Peines del Viento (Combs of the Wind), well worth the longish walk. East of the Urumea River is the somewhat less crowded Playa de la Zurriola, popular with surfers.
For good views, take the 30-minute walk up to Monte Urgull, a hill topped by low castle walls and a statue of Christ. The walk begins at a stairway in Plaza Zuloaga.
The best vista in San Sebastián is to be had from Monte Igueldo. Drive up or catch the funicular (94 321 05 64; return €1.90; 11am-6pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun Feb, Mar, Nov & Dec, 11am-8pm daily Apr-Jun & 15 Sep-Oct, 10am-10pm daily Jul-Aug, closed Jan & 1-14 Sep) from the western end of the seafront paseo. At the top, visit the Parque de Atracciones (94 321 05 64; admission €1.50), an old-time funfair open summer and weekends only.
San Sebastián’s best museum (by far) is the Chillida-Leku (94 333 60 06; www.eduardochillida.com; Bº Jauregui 66 Hernani; adult/student €8/6; 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-3pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10.30am-3pm Oct-May), 10km outside the city centre. An outdoor sculpture garden featuring 40 large-scale works by the famed Basque artist Eduardo Chillida, this is a peaceful place ideal for picnics. To get there, take bus G2, run by Garayar (94 355 66 58), from Calle Okendo.
Information
Donosti-Net (94 342 58 70; Calle Narrica 3; internet per hr €3.30; 9am-11pm) This is a one-stop travellers’ service, with email, office services, travel info and even a spot to leave your luggage (per day €9). English spoken.
Emergency (112)
Lavomatique (93 442 38 71; Calle de Iñigo 14; per 4kg wash €3.80; 9.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Self-serve laundromat.
Post office (94 344 68 26; Calle Urdaneta 7; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat)
Tourist office (94 348 11 66; www.sansebastianturismo.com; Calle Reina Regente 3; 8am-8pm daily Jun-Sep, 9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct-May)
Eating
San Sebastián is absolute paradise for food lovers. Considered the birthplace of nouvelle cuisine in Spain, this area is home to some of the country’s top chefs and is practically a galaxy of Michelin stars. Yet not all the good food is pricey. Head to the Parte Vieja to experience San Sebastián’s famed pintxos (Basque-style tapas).
Pintxos
The idea with pintxo bars is so wonderfully simple that you’ll wonder why it hasn’t caught on in the rest of the world. Step one: walk into a bar that looks appealing. Step two: graze for as long as you like, picking up whatever tiny tapas strike your fancy and devouring them on the spot. Step three: order glasses of txakoli (local fizzy wine) when you get parched. Step four: when you’ve finished, tell the bartender how many tapas you’ve eaten and pay up. Step five: move on to the next bar and begin the process all over again.
Expect pintxos to cost between €1 (for simple creations) and €4 (for something more elaborate). Prices aren’t often posted, so you may have to ask.
Bar Sport (94 342 68 88; Calle Fermín Calbetón 10) You can’t go wrong at this informal and ever-crowded bar, where seafood pintxos are prepared on the spot.
Bar Txeptxa (94 342 22 27; Calle Pescadería 5) Famous for its anchovies (they’re served countless ways), this tiny bar near the Plaza Constitución boasts a wall full of prizes and press clippings.
Egosari (94 342 82 10; Calle Fermín Calbetón 15; mains €10.40-16.40; closed Mon & Thu) Another good choice, here you’ll find a wide variety of standard and creative pintxos. There’s also a formal dining room serving local Basque specialities.
Restaurants
Aralar Bar Restaurante (94 342 63 78; Calle Puerto 10; mains €5-14) Offering a range of tapas as well as good-value fish and meat dishes, this rustic spot is ideal for a leisurely lunch.
Sidreria Donostiarra (94 342 04 21; Calle Embeltran 5; mains €10.75-16.25; closed Sun dinner & lunch Mon-Tue) Expect a memorable meal at this raucous tavern, where traditional cider is served from the barrel. The typical cider-house menu includes codfish followed by quince for dessert.
Entertainment
The Parte Vieja is a fun place to be any night of the week. Around 8pm the tapas bars start hopping as people enjoy a predinner round of pintxos; the revelry lasts until midnight midweek and until the cock crows on weekends. Another hot spot is the area around Calle Reyes Católicos, behind the Cathedral del Buen Pastor.
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