If you had time for just one city in life, Rome’s your spot – gloriously artistic, romantically beautiful and endearingly pazzo (crazy). No other city so stylishly meshes its significant, visible history with its hip, contemporary, fun-loving self. Whether you have a weekend or a month, beguiling Rome will swallow you whole, charm you to pieces, then leave you craving more.
Rome’s 2500-plus years of history have produced a veritable archive of Western culture, from the remnants of ancient Rome to the artistic splendours of the Renaissance and baroque periods. Historic beauties aside, modern Rome is exceptionally vibrant and simmers with passion. Take a big breath, dive in and prepare for sensory overload.
When it comes to seeing the sights, that old adage – Roma, non basta una vita (Rome, a lifetime is not enough) – couldn’t be more true. It would take 900 days just to visit all of Rome’s churches, one a day. Fortunately, you can briskly cover many of the important sights in three days. Entry to various attractions is free for EU citizens aged under 18 and over 65, and half-price for EU citizens aged between 18 and 25, those from countries with reciprocal arrangements, and many students. Cumulative tickets represent good value with discounts for multiple main attractions; ask at primary sites or call (06 399 67 700.
Roman Forum & Palatine Hill
The ancient Roman commercial, political and religious centre, the Roman Forum ((06 399 67 700; admission to Forum free, to Palatine Hill with Colosseum €8; h9am-1hr before sunset Mon-Sat), stands in a valley between the Capitoline and Palatine Hills. Originally marshland, the area was drained during the early republican era and began as a typical public piazza (square). Its importance declined along with the empire after the 4th century AD, and the temples, monuments and buildings constructed by emperors, consuls and senators over a period of 900 years fell into ruin until eventually the site was used as pasture land.
As you enter, to your left is the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected by the senate in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century. To your right are the remains of the Basilica Aemilia, built in 179 BC and plundered for marble during the Renaissance. The Via Sacra, which traverses the Forum from northwest to southeast, runs in front of the basilica. Towards the Campidoglio is the Curia, once the meeting place of the Roman senate and converted into a church. In front of the Curia is the Lapis Niger, a large piece of black marble that purportedly covered Romulus’ grave.
The Arco di Settimo Severo was erected in AD 203 in honour of this emperor and his sons, and is considered one of Italy’s major triumphal arches. A circular base stone beside the arch marks the umbilicus urbis, the symbolic centre of ancient Rome.
To the southwest of the arch is the Tempio di Saturno, one of the most important ancient Roman temples, used as the state treasury. The Basilica Giulia, in front of the temple, was the seat of justice, and nearby is the Tempio di Giulio Cesare, erected by Augustus in 29 BC on the site where Caesar’s body was burned and Mark Antony read his famous speech.
Southeast of the temple is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua, the oldest Christian church in the Forum, now closed to the public. Back on the Via Sacra is the Case delle Vestali, home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the adjoining Tempio di Vesta. The Arco di Tito, at the Colosseum end of the Forum, was built in AD 81 in honour of the victories of Titus and Vespasian against Jerusalem.
From this point, climb the Palatine, where wealthy Romans built their homes and Romulus supposedly founded the city. Worth a look is the impressive Domus Augustana, the private residence of the emperors; the Domus Flavia, the residence of Domitian; the Tempio della Magna Mater, built in 204 BC; and the fresco-adorned Casa di Livia, thought to belong to the wife of Emperor Augustus.
Piazza del Campidoglio
Perched atop Capitoline Hill, elegant Piazza del Campidoglio was designed by Michelangelo in 1538. Formerly the seat of the ancient Roman government, it is now the seat of the city’s municipal government. Michelangelo also designed the façades of the three palaces bordering the piazza. A modern copy of the bronze equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius is at its centre; the original is on display in the ground-floor portico of the Palazzo Nuovo (also called Palazzo del Museo Capitolino). This forms part of the Musei Capitolini ((06 671 02 071; admission €6.20; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun), well worth visiting for their collections of ancient Roman sculpture.
Vatican City
In 1929, Mussolini, under the Lateran Treaty, gave the pope full sovereignty over what is now the world’s smallest country.
The tourist office ((06 698 81 662; Piazza di San Pietro; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) is to the left of the basilica. Tours of the Vatican City gardens ((06 698 84 466; €10) can be organised here. The city has its own postal service, newspaper, radio station and army of Swiss Guards.
ST PETER’S BASILICA & SQUARE
Whatever your faith, Christendom’s most famous church is more than likely going to leave you awestruck. St Peter’s Basilica (San Pietro; admission free; h7am-7pm Apr-Sep, 7am-6pm Oct-Mar) stands on the location where St Peter was buried. The first church here was built in the 4th century, and in 1506 work started on a new basilica, designed by Bramante.
Michelangelo took over the project in 1547, at the age of 72, and designed the grand dome, which soars 120m above the altar. It was completed in 1590, long after the artist had died. Treasures in the cavernous interior include Michelangelo’s superb Pietá, sculpted when he was only 24 years old and the only work to carry his signature.
Entrance to the dome is to the right as you climb the stairs to the basilica’s atrium. Make the climb on foot for €4, or pay €5 for the lift. Dress rules and security are stringently enforced – no shorts, miniskirts or sleeveless tops, and be prepared to have your bags searched.
Bernini’s 17th-century Piazza di San Pietro is bound by two semicircular colonnades, each comprised of four rows of columns. In its centre stands an obelisk brought to Rome by Caligula from Heliopolis (in ancient Egypt).
The Pope usually gives a public audience at 10am every Wednesday in the Papal Audience Hall or Piazza di San Pietro. You must make a booking, in person or by fax to the Prefettura della Casa Pontifica (%06 698 84 631; fax 06 698 83 865), on the Monday or Tuesday prior, between 9am and 1pm.
VATICAN MUSEUMS
From St Peter’s follow the wall of Vatican City to the museums (admission €12, last Sun of month free; h8.45am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 8.45am-1.45pm Sat & last Sun of month). They contain an astonishing collection of art and treasures, and you’ll need several hours to see them. The Sistine Chapel comes towards the end of a full visit; otherwise, you can walk straight there and work your way back through the museums.
The Museo Pio-Clementino, containing Greek and Roman antiquities, is on the ground floor near the entrance. Past the superb Galleria delle Carte Geografiche (Map Gallery) and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) are the magnificent Stanze di Rafaello, once the private apartments of Pope Julius II, decorated with frescoes by Raphael. Of particular interest is the magnificent Stanza della Segnatura, which features Raphael’s masterpieces, The School of Athens and Disputation on the Sacrament.
From Raphael’s rooms, go down the stairs to the sumptuous Appartamento Borgia, decorated with frescoes by Pinturicchio, and then down another flight of stairs to the Sistine Chapel, the private papal chapel built in 1473 for Pope Sixtus IV. Michelangelo’s frescoes of the Creation and Last Judgement have been superbly restored to their original brilliance. It took Michelangelo four years, at the height of the Renaissance, to paint the Creation; 24 years later he painted the extraordinary Last Judgement. The other walls of the chapel were painted by artists including Botticelli and Signorelli.
Pantheon
The Pantheon (Piazza della Rotonda; admission free; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) is the best-preserved building of ancient Rome. The original temple was built in 27 BC by Marcus Agrippa, son-in-law of Emperor Augustus, and dedicated to the planetary gods. Agrippa’s name remains inscribed over the entrance.
Over the centuries the Pantheon was consistently plundered and damaged. The gilded-bronze roof tiles were removed by an emperor of the eastern empire, and Pope Urban VIII had the bronze ceiling of the portico melted down to make the canopy over the main altar of St Peter’s and 80 cannons for Castel Sant’ Angelo. The Pantheon’s extraordinary dome is considered the most important achievement of ancient Roman architecture. The Italian kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I, and the painter Raphael are buried here.
Piazza Navona
This vast and beautiful square, lined with baroque palaces, was laid out on the ruins of Domitian’s stadium and features three fountains. In its centre is Bernini’s masterpiece, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers). Relax on the stone benches or at the expensive cafés and watch the artists who gather in the piazza to work.
Campo de’Fiori
‘Il Campo’ was a place of execution during the Inquisition, and Caravaggio went on the run after killing a man who beat him in tennis on this piazza. Nowadays a flower and vegetable market is held here Monday to Saturday, and revellers fill the many bars at night.
The Palazzo Farnese, within the piazza of the same name, is just off the Campo. A magnificent Renaissance building, it was started in 1514 by Antonio da Sangallo, carried on by Michelangelo and finally completed by Giacomo della Porta. Built for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese (later Pope Paul III), the palace is now the French embassy. The piazza has two fountains, enormous granite baths taken from the Baths of Caracalla.
Villa Borghese
This lovely, leafy park was once the estate of Cardinal Scipione Borghese. His 17th-century villa houses the Museo e Galleria Borghese (%06 328 10; www.ticketeria.it; admission €8.50; h9am-7pm Tue-Sat), an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures. You can hire boats at the lovely lake and bicycles near the Porta Pinciana entrance. Outside the park is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna ((06 323 40 00; Viale delle Belle Arti 131; admission €6.50; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), a belle époque palazzo (palace) housing 19th- and 20th-century paintings. The Etruscan museum, Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (admission €4; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), is on the same street in Piazzale di Villa Giulia.
Trevi Fountain
The high-baroque Fontana di Trevi was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and immortalised in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. The custom is to throw a coin into the fountain (over your shoulder while facing away) to ensure your return to Rome; a second coin grants a wish.
Colosseum & Arch of Constantine
Originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, Rome’s best-known monument, the
Colosseum ((06 399 67 700; admission with Palatine Hill €8; h9am-1hr before sunset) was begun by Emperor Vespasian in AD 72. The massive structure could seat 80,000 and featured gory and profusely deadly gladiatorial combat and wild beast shows.
During the Middle Ages the Colosseum became a fortress then later a quarry for travertine and marble to build Palazzo Venezia and other buildings. Restoration works have been under way since 1992. Skip paying the admission to see the barren interior.
On the west side of the Colosseum is the triumphal arch built to honour Constantine following his victory over his rival Maxentius at the battle of Milvian Bridge in 312. Its decorative reliefs were taken from earlier structures.
Piazza di Spagna & Spanish Steps
This exquisite piazza, church and famous staircase (Scalinata della Trinitá dei Monti) have long provided a major gathering place. Built in 1725 and named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, the steps lead to the church of Trinitá dei Monti. In the 18th century beautiful Italians gathered there, hoping to be chosen as artists’ models, and lookers of both sexes still abound. To the right as you face the steps is the house where John Keats spent the last three months of his life in 1821. In the piazza is the boat-shaped fountain of the Barcaccia, believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the famous Gian Lorenzo. One of Rome’s most elegant shopping streets, Via Condotti, runs off the piazza towards Via del Corso.
Piazza del Popolo
This vast and impressive piazza was laid out in the 16th century at the point of convergence of three roads, which form a ‘trident’ at the city’s northern entrance. It was redesigned in the early 19th century by Giuseppe Valadier and is also home to Santa Maria del Popolo, where two magnificent Caravaggio paintings (one of St Peter and one of St Paul) are housed. The piazza is at the foot of the Pincio Hill, affording a bella vista (beautiful view) of the city, especially in the early hours; Keats, Strauss, Ghandi and Mussolini all liked to stroll here.
Trastevere
Wander through Trastevere’s narrow medieval streets, which retain a sense of bonhomie and the air of a typical Roman neighbourhood despite the influx of foreigners. Especially beautiful at night, this is a great area for eating and bar-hopping.
Go to the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere,in the lovely piazza of the same name, believed to be the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin in Rome. Its interior was redecorated during the baroque period, but the vibrant mosaics in the apse and on the triumphal arch date from the 12th century. Also worth a look is the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, with its magnificent 13th-century fresco.
Via Giulia
Bramante designed this elegant street for Pope Julius II as a new approach to St Peter’s. It is lined with Renaissance palaces, antique shops and art galleries, and spanning the southern end is Michelangelo’s ivy-draped Arco Farnese.
Terme di Caracalla
The huge Terme di Caracalla complex ((06 399 67 70; Via della Terme di Caracalla 52; admission €5; h9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm Mon), covering 10 hectares, could hold 1600 people and included shops, gardens, libraries and entertainment. Begun by Antonius Caracalla and inaugurated in AD 217, the baths were used until the 6th century.
Churches
Down Via Cavour from Stazione Termini is massive Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, built in the 5th century. Its baroque façade was added in the 18th century, preserving the 13th-century mosaics of the earlier façade. There are 5th-century mosaics decorating the triumphal arch and nave.
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli, just off Via Cavour, houses Michelangelo’s Moses and his unfinished statues of Leah and Rachel, as well as the vincoli (chains) worn by St Peter during his imprisonment before he was crucified.
Chiesa di San Clemente (Via San Giovanni in Laterano), near the Colosseum, defines how history in Rome exists on many levels. The 12th-century church at street level was built over a 4th-century church that was, in turn, built over a 1st-century Roman house containing a temple dedicated to the god Mithras.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin, northwest of Circus Maximus, is regarded as one of the finest medieval churches in Rome. It has a seven-storey bell tower and its interior is decorated with Cosmatesque inlaid marble, including the beautiful floor. The main attraction for tourists is, however, the Bocca della Veritá (Mouth of Truth). Legend has it that if you put your right hand into the mouth and tell a lie, it will snap shut.
Baths of Diocletian & Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
Just across the piazza from Termini, the Baths of Diocletian ((06 488 05 30; Viale E de Nicola 79; admission €5; h9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun) were created at the turn of the 3rd century. Rome’s largest baths, they could accommodate 3000 people; the 13-hectare complex also included libraries, concert halls and gardens. In 536, invaders destroyed the aqueduct that fed the baths and the complex fell into decay.
Parts of the ruins are incorporated into the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (h7.30am-6.30pm). Designed by Michelangelo, this church incorporates what was the great central hall and tepidarium (lukewarm room) of the original baths. Over the centuries his original work was drastically changed and little evidence of his design, apart from the great vaulted ceiling of the church, remains. An interesting feature of the church is a double meridian in the transept, one tracing the polar star and the other telling the precise time of the sun’s zenith.
Catacombs
There are several catacombs in Rome, consisting of miles of tunnels carved out of volcanic rock, which were the meeting and burial places of early Christians. The largest are along the Via Appia Antica (the Appian Way), just outside the city and accessible on Metro Linea A to Colli Albani, then bus No 660. The Catacombs of San Callisto (admission €5; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Thu-Tue Mar-Jan) and Catacombs of San Sebastiano (admission €5; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat 10 Dec-10 Nov) are almost next to each other. Admission to each is with a guide only
Romans take visible pride in their cuisine. Antipasto is a stand out, especially bruschetta, while classic pastas include cacio e pepe (with pecorino cheese, pepper and olive oil) as well as the spicy all’Amatriciana (with tomato, pancetta and chilli). For a delicious secondo, try saltimbocca alla Romana (escalopes of veal sautéed with white wine, sage and prosciutto). Locals rarely dine before 9pm.
For the best value, hit the side streets off ‘Il Campo’ and Piazza Navona. San Lorenzo and Testaccio are popular with locals and also offer good-value meals. Trastevere simmers with eating options, but dodge the soulless tourist menus. In general, the eating establishments near Stazione Termini charge high prices for mediocre food. Eating in the A-list piazzas is sometimes worth the splurge; also expect to pay more near the Vatican.
With panini (an Italian sandwich) and slices of oven-hot pizza, Italy is perfect for quick, cheap eats. Try Antico Forno (Via delle Muratte 8) for delicious slices and hearty sandwiches; Frontoni (Viale di Trastevere) for good sandwiches sold by weight; and Forno di Campo de’Fiori (Campo de’Fiori 22) for metres of pizza bianca.
Lively food markets are held off Viale delle Millizie, just north of the Vatican, and in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, near Termini. A well-stocked 24-hour supermarket is
underneath the main concourse of Stazione Termini.
Gelati
San Crispino (Via della Panetteria 42) This nook near Trevi Fountain serves Rome’s best gelato; try the in-season fruit sorbets and the whiskey flavour.
Also recommended (but not for the indecisive), Gelateria della Palma (Via della Maddalena 20) has 100 flavours – the creamy mousses are a sure bet – and La Fonte della Salute (Via Cardinale Marmaggi 2-6) has excellent gelati and generous scoops.
Restaurants, Trattorias & Pizzerias
CITY CENTRE
Pizzeria il Leoncino (%06 687 63 06; Via del Leoncino 28; pizza €5) On a side street off busy Via del Corso, this excellent spot is cheap, hectic, full of beer-swigging locals, and serves up some of the finest pizza alla romana (thin and crispy crusts) in town.
Pizzeria da Baffetto (%06 686 16 17; Via del Governo Vecchio 114; pizza about €7) Any self-respecting pizza fan will also visit this Roman institution, always packed to the beams. Come very early or very late if you don’t want to queue or share a table.
Ditirambo (%06 687 16 26; Piazza della Cancelleria
72; mains about €9) With wood-beamed ceilings, this cosy trattoria (cheap restaurant) serves largely organic fare with funky twists, like ravioli with taleggio (a pungent, soft-rind cheese) and radicchio (Italian chicory – a mildly bitter leafy vegetable used in salads). The tall, dark and handsome waiters will charm you silly.
Maccheroni (%06 683 07 895; Piazza delle Coppelle 44; mains from €9) A hip trattoria serving traditional Roman fare with new flair to the trendy set. On a hot night, the outdoor tables are much-coveted.
Gusto (%06 322 62 73; Piazza del Imperatore Augusto 9; pasta from €6) Slick and savvy, this place is a melange of pizzeria, osteria (snack bar), wine bar and kitchen shop. It has an excellent wine list, an enormous cheese selection and good people-watching.
L’Orso 80 (%06 686 49 04; Via dell’Orso 33;
from €15) Delicious and plentiful antipastos are the stars at this popular spot, and the friendly waiters are happy to keep bringing small plates until you yell basta (enough); a good option for vegetarians.
Cul de Sac (%06 688 01 094; Piazza Pasquino 73; pasta from €7) Tucked into a nook off Piazza Navona, this favourite local wine bar has communal wood benches out the front, a social vibe inside, and serves up solid meals and excellent wines.
WEST OF THE TIBER
Café Café (%06 700 87 43; Via dei Santi Quattro 44; salads from €4) A low-key, neighbourhood joint not far from the Colosseum, it offers excellent salads, light meals and sandwiches –
not to mention international newspapers, cups of brew, and wines by the glass. So comfortable you may have trouble leaving.
Remo (%06 574 62 70; Piazza Santa Maria Liberatice 44; pizza from €4.50) This is loud and rowdy –
it fills with party types at weekends – but the cheap prices, pizza and bruschette al pomodoro (bruschettas with tomato) make the chaos and obligatory queues worth it.
Osteria dell’Angelo (%06 372 94 70; Via G Bettolo 24; mains from €12) Offering the best value near the Vatican, this popular spot serves delicious authentic Roman fare, like salsicce al cinghiale (wild boar sausage).
Pizzeria Ivo (%06 581 70 82; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; pizza €4.75) Nice outdoor tables, excellent bruschetta, and a spirited local crowd who gather to watch soccer games, make up for the too-small-but-tasty pizzas and long queues.
Da Augusto (%06 580 37 98; Piazza de’Renzi 15; mains from €8) This bare-bones-but-beloved mamma’s kitchen serves Roman classics with an occasionally surly attitude.
Osteria da Lucia (%06 580 36 01; Via del Mattinato 2; mains from €8) Dine under the stars with laundry flapping on the line at this terrific neighbourhood trattoria serving a trippa alla romano (Roman tripe) that may well make you a convert