Busabout Adventures

Rome is surprisingly small, especially the centro storico (historic centre). Most intercity trains stop at Roma Termini (sometimes called Stazione Termini). Urbano (city) buses leave from just in front, in the Piazza del Cinquecento, and Metro Linea A and B depart from under the train station.

When it comes to seeing the sights, that old adage Roma, non basta una vita (Rome, a lifetime is not enough) couldn’t be more true. Possibly the only European capital with more ruins than dog poop, Rome boasts thousands of years of visible history.

Entry to various attractions is free for EU citizens aged under 18 and over 65, and reduced (usually half price) for EU citizens aged between 18 and 25, plus those from countries with reciprocal arrangements and many university students.

Colosseum
It takes a bit of imagination, but when visiting Rome’s greatest known monument, the Colosseum (06 399 67 700; admission incl Palatine Hill €10; 9am-1hr before sunset), try to close your eyes and picture how the ancient arena would have appeared in its heyday – the marble-covered building crammed with 50,000 spectators, complete with boxed seats (some with the benefactor’s carved names still visible), toilet facilities, refreshment stands and a giant retractable sail to act as a roof. Instead of football, however, they would have been watching gladiators fight panthers, hippopotami and crocodiles, and, occasionally, one another. The Colosseum was built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 AD and finished by his son Titus in 80 AD.

On the western side of the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, built to honour Constantine’s victory over his rival Maxentius at the battle of Milvian Bridge in AD 312. Its decorative reliefs were taken from earlier structures.

Roman Forum & Palatine Hill
Visit the dawn of Western civilisation at the Roman Forum (06 399 67 700; admission free to Forum, admission to Palatine Hill incl Colosseum €10; 9am-1hr before sunset Mon-Sat), set in a valley between the Capitoline and Palatine hills. Throughout the era of the kings, the Republic and the Empire, the Forum was the political, religious and social centre of the Roman world.

As you enter at Largo Romolo e Remo (coming from the Colosseum and Via dei Fori Imperiali), to your left is the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected by the Senate in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century. To your right are the remains of the Basilica Aemilia, built in 179 BC. The Via Sacra, which traverses the Forum from northwest to southeast, runs in front of the basilica.

Towards the Campidoglio is the Curia, once the meeting place of the Roman Senate and converted into a church. In front of the Curia is the Lapis Niger, a large piece of black marble that purportedly covered the grave of Romulus.

The Arco di Settimo Severo was erected in AD 203 in honour of this emperor and his sons, and is considered one of Italy’s major triumphal arches. A circular base stone beside the arch marks the umbilicus urbis, the symbolic centre of ancient Rome.

Southwest of the arch is the Tempio di Saturno, one of the most important ancient Roman temples. Dedicated in 497 BC to the god of chaos and disorder, it was later used as the state treasury. The Basilica Giulia, in front of the temple, was the seat of justice, and nearby is the Tempio di Giulio Cesare, erected by Augustus in 29 BC on the site where Caesar’s body was burned.

In the area southeast of the temple is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua, the oldest Christian church in the Forum, now closed to the public. Back on Via Sacra is the Casa delle Vestali, home of the virgins who tended the eternal flame of Rome in the adjoining Tempio di Vesta. The vestal virgins were chosen at the age of 10 for their beauty and virtue. They were required to stay chaste and committed to keeping the flame for 30 years, when they could retire at the age of 40. The Arco di Tito, at the Colosseum end of the Forum, was built in AD 81 in honour of the victories of the emperors Titus and Vespasian against Jerusalem.

From here, climb the Palatine (admission incl Colosseum €10; entrances along Via di San Gregorio & Piazza dei Santa Maria Nova), where wealthy Romans built their homes and legend says that Romulus founded the city. You’ll find the former villas of Emperor Domitian at Domus Augustana and Domus Flavia, where the modern-thinking emperor built his very own home entertainment system – a complete indoor sports stadium.

Also of note on the Palatine Hill are the Tempio della Magna Mater, built in 204 BC, and the fresco-adorned Casa di Livia, where the Emperor Augustus’ wife schemed her way into history.

Vatican City
The smallest sovereign nation in the world, Vatican City comprises just 1 sq km on the western bank of the Tiber, but houses the most important Catholic collection in the world. The Vatican has considerable influence, with its own postal service, currency, newspaper, radio station and even an army of Swiss Guards to watch over the pope’s personal safety. There’s a Vatican tourist office (06 698 81 662; Piazza di San Pietro; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat) just to the west of the Basilica.

ST PETER’S BASILICA & SQUARE
The glorious St Peter’s Basilica (06 69 88 20 19; Piazza di San Pietro; admission free; 7am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar) is testament to the religious, artistic and cultural significance of Rome. There has been a church here since Constantine’s reign during the 4th century, marking the legendary spot where St Peter was buried. Michelangelo was responsible for the design of the grand dome, which soars 120m above the altar and was completed in 1590, long after the genius artist and architect had died. The cavernous interior contains numerous treasures, including Michelangelo’s superb Pietá, sculpted when he was only 24 years old and the only work to carry his signature.

Enter the Basilica through Piazza di San Pietro, four rows of colonnades designed by Bernini. Pilgrims, nuns and tourists congregate here in long lines. Entrance to the dome is to the right as you climb the stairs to the basilica’s atrium. Make the climb on foot (€4) or take the lift (€7). Dress rules and security are stringently enforced: no shorts, miniskirts or sleeveless tops, and bags will be searched.

Equally impressive is Bernini’s masterpiece Piazza di San Pietro, laid out in the 17th century. The vast piazza is bound by two semicircular colonnades, each comprising four rows of Doric columns, and in its centre stands an obelisk brought to Rome by Caligula from Heliopolis (in ancient Egypt). The pope usually gives a public audience at 10am every Wednesday in the Papal Audience Hall or St Peter’s Square. You must make a booking, in person or by fax to the Prefettura della Casa Pontificia (06 69 88 46 31; fax 06 69 88 38 65) on the Monday or Tuesday beforehand, between 9am and 1pm. To go in person, enter via the bronze doors under the colonnade to the right of St Peter’s (facing the church).

VATICAN MUSEUMS
The Vatican Museums (adult/reduced €12/8, free last Sun of month; from 8.45am Mon-Sat, last entrance 12.20pm Nov-Feb, 3.20pm Mar-Oct & Christmas time, 1.20pm Sat Mar-Oct; closed Sun except last Sun of month) contain an astonishing collection of art and treasures collected by the popes, and you’ll need several hours to see the most important areas. Make sure you pick up a floor-plan leaflet. There are four very helpful ‘one-way’ itineraries, lasting from 1½ to five hours and mapped out with the aim of simplifying visits and containing the huge numbers of visitors. The Sistine Chapel comes towards the very end of a full visit; otherwise, you can walk straight there, but if you’d like to visit the Stanze di Raffaello, do so first as you can’t backtrack once in the chapel.

The Museo Pio-Clementino, containing Greek and Roman antiquities, is on the ground floor near the entrance. Through the superb Galleria delle Carte Geografiche (Map Gallery) and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) are the magnificent Stanze di Rafaello, once the private apartments of Pope Julius II, decorated with frescoes by Raphael. Of particular interest is the magnificent Stanza della Segnatura, which features Raphael’s masterpieces The School of Athens and Disputation on the Sacrament.

From Raphael’s rooms, go down the stairs to the sumptuous Appartamento Borgia, decorated with frescoes by Pinturicchio, and then down another flight of stairs to the Sistine Chapel, the private papal chapel built in 1473 for Pope Sixtus IV. Michelangelo’s wonderful frescoes, Creation and Last Judgment, have been superbly restored to their original brilliance. It took Michelangelo four years, at the height of the Renaissance, to paint the Creation; 24 years later he painted the extraordinary Last Judgment. The other walls were painted by artists including Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, Pinturicchio and Signorelli.

Piazza del Campidoglio & Musei Capitolini
Jog up the impressive steps to Capitoline Hill, the lowest of Rome’s seven hills, the centre of Jupiter worship in ancient Rome and the house of city government in medieval Rome. Michelangelo, the architectural rock star of his day, was commissioned to redesign the interior Piazza del Campidoglio, which he had face the Christian St Peter’s rather than the pagan Forum. A modern copy of the bronze equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius is at its centre; the original is on display in the ground-floor portico of the Palazzo Nuovo (Palazzo del Museo Capitolino).

Impressing visitors since 1471, the Musei Capitolini (06 96 74 00; adult/reduced €6.20/4.20; 9am-8pm Tue-Sun) is the oldest antiquities museum in the world.

Pantheon
Nowhere is the splendour of ancient Rome more evident than the Pantheon (Piazza della Rotonda; admission free; 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun, 9am-1pm holidays), the best-preserved building of its time. The original temple was built in 27 BC by Marcus Agrippa, the son-in-law of Emperor Augustus, and dedicated to the planetary gods (Agrippa’s name remains inscribed over the entrance). Later used as a Catholic church, the dome is an architectural marvel, even by today’s standards. The oculus in the middle allows in light and was built with concrete that becomes lighter the closer it gets to the oculus, dispersing weight. Many Italian kings are buried here, as is Raphael.

Piazza Navona
Come to Piazza Navona to watch as tourists, artists, pensioners and pickpockets jostle their way around the Renaissance architect Bernini’s masterpiece, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers), sipping espresso in a sidewalk café (worth the expense) or slurping a gelato in the splendour of sun-drenched baroque palace masterpieces.

Piazza Campo de’Fiori
The colourful Piazza Campo de’Fiori, affectionately called ‘Il Campo’, was a place of execution during the Inquisition, while the artist Caravaggio went on the run after killing a man who had the gall to beat him in tennis on this piazza. Nowadays a flower and vegetable market is held here Monday to Saturday, artists congregate to sell their wares on Sunday and revellers fill the many bars nightly. The piazza has two fountains, which are enormous granite baths taken from the Baths of Caracalla.

Villa Borghese
This gorgeous park was once the estate of Cardinal Scipione Borghese. His 17th-century villa houses the Museo e Galleria Borghese (06 328 10; www.galleriaborghese.it; admission €8.50/5.25; 9am-7pm, closed Mon), which has held an impressive art collection for over 300 years. Take a walk through the lovely, leafy park, which has a zoo and a lake full of ducks, swans and turtles. You can hire boats at the lake and bicycles near the Porta Pinciana entrance. Just north of the park is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (06 323 40 00; Viale delle Belle Arti 131; admission €6.50; 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), a belle époque palace housing 19th- and 20th-century paintings. The Etruscan museum, Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia (06 322 65 71; admission €4; 8.30am-7.30pm, closed Mon), is on the same street in Piazzale di Villa Giulia, in the former villa of Pope Julius III.

Trevi Fountain
The high-baroque Fontana di Trevi (Piazza di Crociferi), about six blocks northeast of the Pantheon, was designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and immortalised in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita. It sprawls over almost the entire piazza and depicts Neptune’s chariot being led by Tritons, with sea horses representing the moods of the sea. The custom is to throw a coin into the fountain (over your shoulder while facing away) to ensure your return to Rome; a second coin grants a wish.

Piazza di Spagna & Spanish Steps
The exquisite Piazza di Spagna, church and famous Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinitá dei Monti) have long provided a major gathering place for foreigners and locals alike. Built with a legacy from the French in 1725, but named after the Spanish embassy to the Holy See, the steps lead to the church; the steps were constructed to link the piazza with the well-heeled folks living above it.

In the 18th century beautiful Italians gathered here, hoping to be chosen as artists’ models. Today, beauties of both sexes still abound. To the right as you face the steps is the house where Keats spent the last three months of his life, in 1821. In the piazza is the boat-shaped fountain of the Barcaccia, believed to be by Pietro Bernini, father of the famous Gian Lorenzo. One of Rome’s most elegant and expensive shopping streets, Via Condotti, runs off the piazza towards Via del Corso.

Piazza del Popolo
The vast and impressive Piazza del Popolo was laid out in the 16th century at the point of convergence of three roads – Via Ripetta, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino – known as the ‘trident’. Santa Maria del Popolo (Piazza del Popolo 12; 7am-noon, 4-7pm) houses two magnificent Caravaggio paintings (of St Peter and of St Paul). The piazza is at the foot of the Pincio Hill, which affords a bella vista of the city, especially in the early hours; Keats, Strauss, Ghandi and Mussolini liked strolling here.

Trastevere
The happening neighbourhood in Rome has a storied past, but its vibrant nightlife scene is soundly for the young at heart. The neighbourhood lights up at night as all ages take to the street on the evening passeggiata (evening stroll), and its cadre of bars and restaurants spill out onto the streets.

Don’t miss the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere (Piazza di Santa Maria; 06 581 48 02; 7.30am-1pm, 4-7pm) in the lovely piazza of the same name, believed to be the oldest Roman church dedicated to the Virgin. Also take a look at the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (admission free; 9am-12.30pm & 4.15-6.30pm Mon-Sat), with its magnificent 13th-century fresco and oldest extent baptistry in Rome, dating back to possibly the 5th century.

Appia Antica & the Catacombs
When they say ‘All roads lead to Rome’, the Via Appia Antica (Appian Way) has been the most important and strategic of those roads for 2300 years. Construction began in 312 BC for military purposes. After Spartacus’ revolt in 71 BC, it was lined with 6000 crucified slaves to serve as a sanguinary warning to all who travelled its path.

The Via Appia Antica is just southeast of the city and accessible on Metro Linea A to Colli Albani, then bus 660. It’s technically traffic-free on Sundays if you want to walk or cycle it. Head first to the headquarters of Parco Regionale dell’Appia Antica (06 513 53 16; www.parcoappiaantica.org; Via Appia Antica 58; 9.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 9.30am-1.30pm & 2pm-4.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Feb). Bicycles are €3 per hour and €10 per day and are a great way to wander through this tranquil park.

The largest catacombs in Rome are along the Via Appia Antica, including the Catacombs of San Callisto (Via Appia Antica 110; adult/reduced €5/3; 8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Oct-May, until 5.30pm Jun-Sep) and Catacombs of San Sebastiano (Via Appia Antica 136; adult/reduced €5/3; 8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat, to 5.30pm Jun-Sep, closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec), within walking distance of each other, south of park headquarters. The Roman custom had been to cremate bodies, but as Christ rose from the dead, the first Christians wanted to preserve the corporeal bodies of the deceased…just in case.

Churches
Down from Roma Termini is the massive Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (Via Cavour; 7am-6.30pm), originally named Santa Maria della Neve and built by Pope Liberius in 352 after the Virgin Mary instructed him to construct a church on the spot where the next snow fell. Several mosaics date to the 5th century.

You can spend hours in the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli (Piazza San Pietro in Vincoli; 7am-noon & 3.30-7pm) simply gazing at Michelangelo’s astonishing statue, Moses. Also, check out the chains reputedly worn by St Peter during his imprisonment before being crucified; hence the church’s name (St Peter in Chains).

Chiesa di San Clemente (Via San Giovanni in Laterano; 9am-12.30pm, 3pm-6pm), east of the Colosseum, defines how history in Rome exists on many levels. The 12th-century church at street level was built over a 4th-century church that was, in turn, built over a 1st-century Roman house containing a temple dedicated to the pagan god Mithras.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin (Via del Circo Massimo; 10am-1pm & 2.30-6pm), northwest of Circus Maximus (Via del Circo Massimo), is regarded as one of the finest medieval churches in Rome. It has a seven-storey bell tower and its interior is heavily decorated with Cosmatesque inlaid marble, including the beautiful floor. The main attraction for masses of tourists is, however, its Bocca della Veritá (Mouth of Truth) in front of the entrance (look for the hordes of bus tourists). Legend has it that if you put your right hand into the ceramic mouth and tell a lie, it will snap shut.

Baths of Diocletian & Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
Just across the piazza from Termini, the Baths of Diocletian (06 488 05 30; Via Enrico De Nicola 79; admission €5; 9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun) were built at the turn of the 3rd century and accommodated up to 3000 visitors in a series of libraries, concert halls and gardens. Parts of the ruins are incorporated into the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Piazza della Repubblica; 7.30am-6.30pm), designed by Michelangelo around the original baths.

The place to head for clubbing is Testaccio. At Roman nightclubs, expect to pay upwards of €20 just to get in, which may or may not include one drink.

Caffé Latino (Via di Monte Testaccio 36) Live Latin music and a disco of Latin and funk.

Caruso Caffé (Via di Monte Testaccio 36) Nearby and more sedate, with live music twice weekly and good DJs.

Gilda (06 679 73 96; Via Mario de’Fiori 97) With its plush décor and vast dance floor, Gilda attracts a slightly older, jackets-required crowd.

Le Cru (06 678 48 38; Via della Mercede 10/d) Oozing smoke and bedecked with tapestries, mirrors, candle-lit tables and kissing couples. There’s no cover, but the cocktails, served in voluptuous glasses, are steep.

L’Alibi (06 574 34 48; Via di Monte Testaccio 44) Regarded as Rome’s premier gay venue.

Popular stayers include Alien (06 841 22 12; Via Velletri 13; 10.30pm-4am Tue & Thu-Sun), for sci-fi décor, dancers on raised platforms and hip-hop rhythms; and the far-flung Goa (06 574 82 77; Via Libetta 13; 11pm-3am Tue & Thu-Sun Oct-May), with its groovy ethnic décor and glam crowd, but a distant location south of the city near metro stop Garbatella.

Car & Motorcycle
Negotiating Roman traffic is difficult by car or foot, but not impossible. Whether you’re on foot, two or four wheels, remember to stay alert for crazed drivers (especially motorcyclists) attempting manoeuvres you thought only possible in the movies.

If your car disappears after being parked illegally, check with the traffic police (06 6 76 91).

Public Transport
Rome has an integrated public transport system, so the same Metrebus ticket is valid for all modes of transport: bus, tram and metro. You can buy tickets at all tabacchi, newsstands and from vending machines at main bus stops. Single tickets cost €1 for 75 minutes, €4 for one day, €11 for three days and €16 per week. Tickets must be purchased before you get on and validated in the orange machine as you board. Ticketless riders risk a hefty €51 fine, demanded on the spot in cash. Don’t even try the ‘But I’m a tourist! I didn’t know!’ line – it hasn’t worked in a decade.

ATAC (800 43 17 84; www.atac.roma.it) is the city’s public transport company. Free transport maps and details on bus routes are available at the ATAC information booth at the Urban Bus Station (Piazza dei Cinquecento), where many of the main bus routes terminate. Largo di Torre Argentina, Piazza Venezia and Piazza San Silvestro are other hubs. Buses generally run from about 6am to midnight, while late-night buses are marked with an owl on top of the bus sign. A fast tram service, the 8, connects Largo Argentina with Trastevere, Porta Portese and Monteverde Nuovo.

The Metropolitana has two lines, A (the red line) and B (the blue line). Both pass through Roma Termini. Take Linea A for Piazza di Spagna, the Vatican (Ottaviano) and Villa Borghese (Flaminio), and Linea B for the Colosseum and Circus Maximus. Trains run approximately every five minutes between 5.30am and 11.30pm (12.30am on Saturday) for Linea B and 9pm for Linea A.

Taxi
Roman taxi drivers can be at the top of the fleecing-foreigners game, so make sure your taxi is licensed and keep an eye on the meter. Cooperativa Radio Taxi Romana (06 35 70) oversees many operators. You can’t hail a taxi as in most cities, but there are major taxi ranks at the airports, Roma Termini and Largo Argentina in the historical centre (look for the orange-and-black taxi signs). There are surcharges from €1 to €3 for luggage, night service, Sunday and public holidays. Most taxi fares within Rome’s historic centre will cost around €7 to €20. Taxis are on radio call 24 hours a day.

Emergency
Foreigners’ Bureau (06 468 62 977; Via Genova 2) Report thefts here.
Police station (Questura; 06 468 61; Via San Vitale 11; 24hr)

Internet Access
Easy Internet Café (Via Barberini 2; per hr €2; 8am-1am) Over 100 terminals on two floors.
Telephone Center International (Via Volturino 52; per hr/30min €2/1) Also good rates on international calls.

Medical Services
In each pharmacy (farmacia) window is a list of all-night pharmacies, or phone 06 22 89 41.
24-hour Pharmacy (06 488 00 19; Piazza del Cinquecento 49/50/51) Opposite Roma Termini.
Ospedale Bambino Gesú (06 685 92 351; Piazza di Sant’Onofrio 4) Rome’s paediatric hospital.
Ospedale San Gallicano (06 588 23 90; Via di San Gallicano 25a, Trastevere)

Money
American Express (06 676 41; Piazza di Spagna 38)
Thomas Cook ( 06 482 81 82; Piazza Barberini 21)

Post
Main post office (Piazza di San Silvestro 19; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)

Tourist Information
Enjoy Rome (06 445 18 43; www.enjoyrome.com; Via Marghera 8a; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) Information on Rome activities, hotels and nightlife, and nearby trips.

Tourist information line (06 8205 9127; 9am-7pm daily)

Tourist offices Roma Termini (06 48 90 63 00; 8am-9pm); Via Parigi 5 (9am-7pm Mon-Sat) Good information on hotels and sights. Both offices provide maps and printed information about bus services.

Romans take visible pride in their cucina and traditional recipes. The roots of the local cuisine are the diet of the poor – hence a preponderance of trippa (tripe) – and the Roman-Jewish tradition, with legacies such as stuffed fiori di zucca (zucchini/courgette flowers) and carciofi alla romana (artichokes with garlic, mint and parsley). Locals rarely eat dinner before 9pm.

Snacks & Self-Catering
Foragers will be orgasmic in the lively food markets, held off Viale delle Millizie, just north of the Vatican, and in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, just south of Termini. There’s also a well-stocked Conad Supermarket (Roma Termini) underneath the main concourse of the station.

For quick eats, head to Antico Forno (Via della Muratte 8) for delicious oven-hot slices and hearty sandwiches; Frontoni (Viale di Trastevere) for good sandwiches made from local delicacies and sold by weight; or Forno di Campo de’Fiori (Campo de’Fiori 22) for metres of pizza bianca (pizza sans tomato sauce).

Gelati
The best gelato (ice cream) resides at San Crispino (Via della Panetteria 42), famous for its honey sorbet; Old Bridge (Via Bastioni di Michaelangelo 5), with XXL scoops perfect for a mid-museum pick-me-up; and Tre Scalini (Piazza Navona 30) for a memorable tartufo nero (black truffle) concoction.

Restaurants, Trattorias & Pizzerias

CITY CENTRE
Sora Margherita (06 687 42 16; Piazza Cinque Scole 30; 1st/2nd courses €5/11; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Fri & Sat only). The most popular restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto area, the menu is typical Roman/Jewish – fried artichokes and zucchini blossoms, home-made pasta, chickpea soup etc.

‘Gusto (06 322 62 73; Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9; pastas from €6) Slick and savvy, this place is a melange of pizzeria, osteria, wine bar and kitchen shop. It’s a worthy stop any time, with an excellent wine list, an enormous cheese selection and good people-watching.

Pizzeria da Baffetto (06 686 16 17; Via del Governo Vecchio 114; pizzas €8; dinner only) Any self-respecting pizza fan will make a stop at this Roman institution, which is always packed to the beams. Come very early or very late if you don’t want to queue or share a table.

Ditirambo (06 687 16 26; Piazza della Cancelleria 72; 1st/2nd courses €8/11; closed Mon lunch) With wood-beamed ceilings, this cosy trattoria serves largely organic fare with a funky twist on Italian vegetarian, including leek pudding with marjoram sauce and red chicory (€8), and porcini flan with a taleggio cheese sauce (€10).

Maccheroni (06 683 07 895; Piazza delle Coppelle 44; 1st/2nd courses €8/13) Diners line up for outside tables on warm summer nights and cheeky waiters entertain guests. The Roman dish trippa (tripe) is a speciality here.

WEST OF THE TIBER
Le Mani in Pasta (06 581 60 17; Via dei Genovesi 7; 1st/2nd courses €8/14, closed Mon) A great-value osteria in Trastevere, the name translates roughly as ‘To have one’s fingers in the pie’. Grilled fish and calamari are popular, but the reason to come here is – of course – the pasta dishes. Try the pasta with ricotta, pancetta and nutmeg.

Sette Oche (06 580 97 53; Via dei Salumi 36; lunch incl 1 drink €6.50-7.50; lunch Sat-Mon, dinner 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun) Chill at the ‘Seven Ducks’ restaurant, pizzeria and wine bar. Downstairs flaunts a Middle Eastern flair with wall tapestries, low tables and floor cushions. The owner often plays Italian folk music in the evenings.

Pizzeria Remo (06 574 62 70; Piazza Santa Maria Liberatice 44; pizzas from €4.50) This place is loud and rowdy – filling with party types on weekend nights – but the cheap prices, pizza and bruschette al pomodoro (bruschettas with tomato) make the chaos and obligatory queues worth it.

Pizzeria Ivo (06 581 70 82; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; pizza €4.75; closed Tue) The pizzeria of choice in Trastevere for Trastevereans themselves, Pizzeria Ivo is also quite popular for its grilled meats and scamorza (smoked cheese).

Da Augusto (06 580 37 98; Piazza de’Renzi 15; 1st/2nd courses €6/11) This bare-bones-but-beloved mamma’s kitchen serves Roman classics – occasionally accompanied by a surly attitude.

AROUND ROMA TERMINI
Ristofer (Via Marsala 15; two courses €6.50-7) The cafeteria for railway workers is also open to the very, very hungry.

La Gallina Bianca (06 474 37 77; Via Rosmini 9; starters/pizza/dishes €3.50/6.50/7) This place has an Italian trattoria-meets-English farmhouse feel. Grilled vegetables and smoked cheese (scamorza), strawberry tiramisu and overstuffed salads are winners.

Trimani (06 446 96 630; Via Cernaia 37; dishes from €5; closed Sun) Rome’s biggest enoteca (wine bar) has a vast selection of regional wines along with excellent soups, pasta, canapés and torta rustica (quiche).

The best entertainment guide is Roma C’é (www.romace.it, in Italian; €1.20), with an English-l¬anguage section, published on Wednesday. Daily newspapers La Repubblica and Il Messagero have cinema, theatre and concert listings. All are available at newsstands. Rome’s entertainment schedule is particularly heady in summer, with numerous alfresco performances; be sure to catch one if possible.

For theatre, opera and sporting events, book ahead through Hello (Roma Termini), Enjoy Rome (06 445 18 43; www.enjoyrome.com; Via Marghera 8a; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) or Orbis (06 48 27 403; Piazza dell’Esquilino 37).

Cinema
Several cinemas show films in English, including Multisala Barberini (06 482 10 82; www.multisalabarberini.it; Piazza Barberini 24/25/26) and Warner Village Moderno (47 77 92 01; Piazza della Repubblica 45/46), a megaplex showing Hollywood blockbusters and Italian films. Expect to pay €7, with discounts on Wednesday.

Opera & Classical Music
Teatro dell’Opera (06 481 60 28 706; www.operaroma.it, in Italian; Piazza Beniamino Gigli) Rome’s finest opera offerings from December to June; ticket prices are steep.

For a full season of concerts, there’s the Accademia di Santa Cecilia (06 361 10 64; Via della Conciliazione 4) and the Accademia Filarmonica Romana (06 323 48 90; www.teatroolimpico.it; Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17), about 2km north of the city – take the bus from Piazza Manzini.

The days of Roman orgies are long gone. Rome’s nightlife nowadays focuses more on late-night chats over drinks and a lengthy meal with friends than dancing till 4am (both options are still amply available though).

Cafés
Caffé Sant’Eustachio (06 686 13 09; Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82) Near the Pantheon, this place has been wowing visitors and Romans alike with practically perfect cappuccinos and espresso drinks for over 60 years.

Caffé Marzio (Piazza Santa Maria) This place in Trastevere has terrific coffee and views onto one of Rome’s prettiest piazzas; perfection comes with a price, though.

Bars & Pubs
Bar San Calisto (06 583 58 69; Piazza San Calisto; closed Sun) Filled with drunks, bums, tourists and artists, all flock here for the groovy atmosphere that spills out onto the Piazza during the summer months. The chocolate gelato is legendary.

Bar del Fico (06 687 55 68; Piazza del Fico 24; 8am-2am Mon-Sat, from 6pm Sun) Popular with local actors and artists, this pretty bar has tables beneath its namesake fig tree – providing shade on sunny days and a hint of romance at night – and a snug interior with tasteful music and local art.

Cul de Sac (Piazza di Pasquino; small dishes €5-11; noon-4pm & 6pm-12.30am Tue-Sat) Tucked into a nook off Piazza Navona, this cute wine bar has communal wood benches out front, a chatty interior, simple but good enoteca fare such as cheese courses and salads, and a robust wine list.

La Vineria Reggiano (06 68 80 32 68; Campo de’Fiori 15; 9.30am-2pm & 6pm-1am Mon-Sat, to 2am Sun) Hit the cosy Vineria on the Campo, once the gathering place of the Roman literati.

Trinity College (06 678 64 72; Via del Collegio Romano 6; 11am-3am) If you’re hankering for pub night, try Trinity College: it has a good selection of imported brews, great food and an easy-going ambience. It also gets packed on weekends.

Bar della Pace (06 686 12 16; Via della Pace 3-7) With its gilded ambience and dashing in-crowd, this is an atmospheric drinking spot.

Live Music
Stardust (06 583 20 875; Viccolo dei Renzi 4; 7.30pm-2am Mon-Sat, from noon Sun) A tiny Trastevere pub-meets-jazz bar, this funky haunt purrs with sultry jazz and impromptu jam sessions, and doesn’t close until the last customers tumble out the door. The grooviest Sunday brunch in Rome.

Radio Londra (06 575 00 44; Via di Monte Testaccio 65b, Testaccio) Popular and decked out like an air-raid shelter, with live music from Wednesday to Saturday.

For jazz and blues featuring top international musicians, head to Alexanderplatz (06 397 42 171; Via Ostia 9; 8.30pm-2.30am Mon-Sat, concerts start at 10.15pm), near the Vatican, or Big Mama (06 581 24 51; www.bigmama.it; Via San Francesco a Ripa 18; 9pm-1.30am), just south of Piazza Mastai in Trastevere.