Busabout Adventures

The main train station is just west of the centre. From the station, head east along Bayerstrasse, through Karlsplatz, and then along Neuhauser Strasse and Kaufingerstrasse to Marienplatz, the hub of Munich.

North of Marienplatz are the Residenz (the former royal palace), Schwabing (the famous student section) and the parklands of the Englischer Garten. East of Marienplatz is the Platzl quarter for beer houses, restaurants and Maximilianstrasse, a fashionable street ideal for strolling and window-shopping.

PALACES
The huge Residenz (Max-Joseph-Platz 3) housed Bavarian rulers from 1385 to 1918. Apart from the actual palace itself, the Residenz-­museum ((290 671; www.schloesser.bayern.de; Residenzstrasse 1; adult/concession €4/2; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, 9am-8pm Thu) has an extraordinary array of 100 rooms containing the Wittelsbach house’s belongings. In the same building, the Schatzkammer ((290 671; enter from Max-Joseph-Platz 3; adult/concession €4/2; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, 9am-8pm Thu) exhibits a ridiculous quantity of beautiful jewels, crowns and ornate gold.

If this doesn’t satisfy your passion for palaces, visit Schloss Nymphenburg ((179 080; www.schloesser.bayern.de; adult/concession €5/4, museum & gallery €10/8; h9am-6pm Apr-15 Oct, 10am-4pm 16 Oct-Mar), northwest of the city centre via tram No 17 from the main train station. This was the royal family’s equally impressive summer home.

GARDENS
One of the largest city parks in Europe, the Englischer Garten, north, is a great place for strolling, especially along the Schwabinger Bach. In summer, nude sunbathing is the rule rather than the exception. If people aren’t doing this, they’re probably drinking merrily at one of the park’s three beer gardens.
Check out the surfers riding the waves from the bridge near the Haus der Kunst.

MUSEUMS
The Alte Pinakothek ((2380 5216; www.alte-pinako thek.de; Barer Strasse 27; adult/concession €5/3.50, free Sun; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-10pm Thu) is a veritable treasure house of European masters from the 14th to 18th centuries. Highlights include Dürer’s Christ-like Self Portrait and his Four Apostles, Rogier van der Weyden’s Adoration of the Magi and Botticelli’s Pietà. A day pass (adult/concession €12/7) gets you into the Alte, Neue and der Moderne.

Neue Pinakothek ((2380 5195; www.neue-pina kothek.de; Barer Strasse 29; adult/concession €5/3.50, free Sun; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon, 10am-10pm Thu), immediately north of the Alte Pinakothek, contains mainly 19th-century works, including Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, and sculpture.

Pinakothek der Moderne ((2380 5360; www.pinakothek-der-moderne.de; Barer Strasse 40; adult/concession €9/5, free Sun; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu & Fri), one block east of the Alte Pinakothek, brings together four collections of modern art, graphic art, applied art and architecture.

Deutsches Museum ((217 91; www.deutsches-museum.de; Museumsinsel 1; adult/concession €7.50/5, planetarium €2 extra; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is a vast science and technology museum, like a combination of Disneyland and the Smithsonian Institution all under one huge roof. Take the S-Bahn or tram No 18 to Deutsches Museum.

Zentrum für Aussergewöhnliche Museen (Centre for Unusual Museums; (290 4121; www.zam-museum.de; Westenriederstrasse 41; adult/concession €4/3; h10am-6pm) is where you’ll find displays on everything from the Easter Bunny to Austrian Empress Elisabeth.

Off Hermann-Saack-Strasse is the Stadtmuseum ((233; St-Jakobs-Platz 1; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), where the outstanding exhibits cover beer brewing, fashion, musical instruments, photography and puppets.

CHURCHES
For the ecclesiastically inclined, the pivotal Marienplatz is a good starting point. Dominating the square is the towering neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (Marienplatz), with its incessantly photographed Glockenspiel (carillon) which performs at 11am and noon (also at 5pm from May to October). But there are also two important churches on this square: St Peterskirche and, behind the Altes Rathaus, the Heiliggeistkirche. Head west along shopping street Kaufingerstrasse to the late-Gothic Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady; (423 457; Frauenplatz; tower adult/concession €3/1.50), the landmark church of Munich. Continue west to the large, grey Michaelskirche ((609 0224; Kaufingerstrasse), Germany’s grandest Renaissance church. Further west is the Richard Strauss Fountain and then the medieval Karlstor, an old city gate.

DACHAU
The first Nazi concentration camp, built in March 1933, was Dachau ((08131-669 970; www.kz-gedenkstaette-dachau.de/english; Alte-Roemer-Strasse 75; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun). More than 200,000 people – Jews, political prisoners, homosexuals and others deemed ‘undesirable’ by the Third Reich – were sent here; more than 30,000 died at Dachau and countless others died after being transferred to other death camps. An English-language documentary is shown at 11.30am and 3.30pm. A visit includes camp relics, a memorial and a very sobering museum. Take the S2 to Dachau and then bus No 726 or 724 (Sunday and holidays) to the camp. A Gesamtnetz (total area) ticket (€9) is needed for the trip.

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Munich has no shortage of lively bars and clubs. Thirty to 40 are clustered in industrial buildings in the Kultafabrik (formerly known as Kunstpark Ost) neighbourhood southeast of the Altstadt on the other side of the Isar River. The Young People’s Guide keeps abreast of the hot spots to party.

Klenze 17 (%228 5795; Klenzestrasse 17) The extensive whisky selection is almost as large as its two small rooms. Popular with students.

Kalinka Club (%4090 7260; Grafingerstrasse 6; hfrom 10pm Thu-Sat) This Russian bar in the Kultafabrik attracts an eclectic mix.

Green Room (%3306 6352; Leopoldstrasse 13) Funky and unpretentious Asian-themed bar in Schwabing. Prop yourself up on the cushions and enjoy the 150 kinds of cocktails. Well, maybe just a few.

Negroni (%4895 0154; Innere Weinerstrasse 38) This small classically designed cocktail bar serves them up stiff.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Most places of interest to tourists (except Dachau and the airport) are within the ‘blue’ Innenraum (inner zone). MVV tickets are valid for the S-Bahn, U-Bahn, trams and buses, but must be validated before use. The U-Bahn stops operating around 12.30am on weekdays and 1.30am at weekends, but there are some later buses and S-Bahns. Rail passes are valid only on the S-Bahn.

Kurzstrecke (short rides) cost €1 and are good for no more than four stops on buses and trams and two stops on the U- and S-Bahns. Longer trips cost €2. It’s cheaper to buy a strip card of 10 tickets (Mehrfahrtenkarte) for €9 and stamp one strip per adult on short rides, and two strips for longer rides in the inner zone. Tageskarte (day passes) for the inner zone cost €4.50, while three-day tickets cost €11, or €15 for two adults.

TAXI
Taxis are expensive and not much more convenient than public transport.

DISCOUNT CARD
Munich Welcome Card (72hr €16) Unlimited travel on public transport, plus discounts for many museums, galleries and other attractions. You can buy them from both tourist offices.

EMERGENCY SERVICES
Ambulance (%112)
Police (%110) Police station on Arnulfstrasse right beside the Hauptbahnhof.

INTERNET ACCESS
easyEverything (%5599 9696; Bahnhofplatz 1; per 80min €2; h6am-1am Sun-Fri, 24hr Sat) Hundreds of terminals in the post office building.
Internet-Cafe (%2070 2737; Marienplatz 20; h24hr) In the subway directly in front of the stairway up to the Viktualienmarkt.

MEDICAL SERVICES
Home Medical Service (%551 771, 724 2001)

MONEY
American Express (%2280 1465; Promenadeplatz 6)
Reisebank (%551 0830; main train station) If you show an EurAide newsletter, The Inside Track, the commission will be 50% cheaper.
Thomas Cook (%235 0920; Petersplatz 10)

POST
Main post office (Bahnhofplatz 1; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) The poste restante address is: Hauptpostlagernd (Poste Restante), Bahnhofplatz 1, 80074 München.

TOURIST INFORMATION
The excellent Young People’s Guide (€0.50) is available from information offices. The English-language monthly Munich Found (€3) is also useful (find it at English bookshops, cafés and restaurants) as is the annual Visitors’ Guide (free).

Branch tourist office (Marienplatz; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Beneath the Neues Rathaus.

EurAide (%593 889; www.euraide.com; Hauptbahnhof; h7.45am-12.45pm & 2-6pm May-Oct, 8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) Near platform 11 at the main train station, EurAide has well-informed staff giving advice on local and European train travel, and helping to find rooms (€3 per booking).

Jugendinformationszentrum (Youth Information Centre; %5141 0660; Paul-Heyse-Strasse 22; hnoon-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Thu) Wide range of information for young people, an extensive library of periodicals and cheap Internet access.

Main tourist office (%2333 0300; www.muenchen-tourist.de; Hauptbahnhof, Bahnhofplatz 2; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) To the right as you exit the train station via the eastern entrance.

RESTAURANTS
Bergwolf (%2325 9858; Fraunhoferstrasse 17; meals €5) Inexpensive Wurst, fries and beer are the speciality at this informal hang-out.

Bon Valeur (%5488 3994; Sonnenstrasse 17; mains €7) Try the Bon Valeur for organic food and freshly squeezed juices in a casual setting.

Fraunhofer (%266 460; Fraunhoferstrasse 9; mains €8-13) This highly recommended and always crowded place serves good Bavarian cuisine.

Schwabinger Kartoffelhaus (%303 677; Hohenzollernplatz 4; mains €5-15) Large potato-oriented portions in Schwabing.

Andechser Am Dom (%298 481; Weinstrasse 7; mains €9-14) Slip behind the Frauenkirche for hearty Bavarian chow at its best.

Prinz Myschkin (%265 596; Hackenstrasse 2; mains €9-14) For the discerning vegetarian, Mysch­kin provides tasty pizzas and pastas.

Weisses Brauhaus (%290 1380; Tal 7; mains €10-15) One of the oldest breweries in Munich; serves up specials like boiled ox cheeks.

CAFÉS
Most of Munich’s café culture centres on Schwabing, the university haunt, where you’ll find plenty of snug little spots.

Café Am Beethovenplatz (%5440 4348; Goethenstrasse 51; mains €7-10) A casual hang-out with no airs and graces. Great, affordable food, live music from 7.30pm on.

Schall und Rauch (%288 0957; Schellingstrasse 22; dishes €5) This small unpretentious café has its own CD shop. The menu changes daily but soups are always good.

Café Glockenspiel (%264 256; Marienplatz 28) A window seat at the Glockenspiel is a much-sought-after, if ambitious, goal.

Stadt Café (%266 949; St-Jakobsplatz 1) At the Stadtmuseum, this café has funky décor, and a nice courtyard. It attracts a fairly intellectual crowd.

QUICK EATS
There are plenty of cheap eats in the blocks lying south of the train station. And student card-holders can fill up for around €2 in any of the university Mensas (Schillerstrasse 47, Leopoldstrasse 13B, Arcistrasse 17B & Lothstrassa 13D).

Ca’Doro (Bayerstrasse 31; pizza slices €1.90) The food and service are better than you might expect at Ca’Doro, in the middle of the train station traffic.

Munchen Strudelstube (%5386 8710; Orlandostrasse; 3 strudels €6) Eat your fill of greasy fritters and strudels here.

Viktualienmarkt, just south of Marienplatz, is a large open-air market open every day except Saturday afternoon and Sunday, where you can put together a picnic feast to take to the Englischer Garten.

Munich is one of the cultural capitals of Germany; the publications listed in Information can guide you to the best events or check out www.munichfound.de, a cultural events website updated monthly.

Residenztheater (%2185 1920; Max-Joseph-Platz 2) Home of the Bavarian State Opera and site of many cultural events.

Cinema (%555 255; www.cinema-muenchen.com; Nymphenburger Strasse 31) Current films in English are screened here.

Jazzclub Unterfahrt (%448 2794; Kirchenstrasse 42-44) Near the Max-Weber-Platz U-Bahn station. It has live music every night and open jam sessions on Sunday night.

Mister B’s (%534 901; Herzog-Heinrichstrasse 42) Take the U-Bahn to Goetheplatz to hear live jazz Thursday to Sunday at this tiny club.

Beer drinking is an integral part of Munich’s entertainment scene. Germans drink an average of 130L of the amber liquid each per year; Munich residents manage to drink much more than this!

BEER HALLS & GARDENS
Hofbräuhaus (%2901 3610; www.hofbraeuhaus.de; Am Platzl 9) Though tourists come by the busload, it’s still a good-time place.

Augustiner Grossgaststätte (%5519 9257; Neuhauser Strasse 27) This is probably what you imagine an old-style Munich beer hall looks like, filled with laughter, smoke and
drunkenness.

Augustiner Keller (%594 393; Arnulfstrasse 52) Only five minutes from the Hauptbahnhof, the Keller has a large and leafy beer garden and fine beer.

Pauliner im Tal (%219 9400; Tal 12) If you’ve had your fill of beer, the Pauliner also has an extensive wine menu.

On a summer day there’s nothing better than sitting and sipping among the greenery in the Englischer Garten. The Chinesischer Turm (%383 8730) is a classic, although the nearby Hirschau (%369 942) beer garden on the banks of Kleinhesseloher See is less crowded.

GAY & LESBIAN VENUES
Much of Munich’s gay and lesbian nightlife is in the area just south of Sendlinger Tor. Our Munich is a monthly guide to gay and lesbian life, and is available at Our Munich Shop (%2601 8503; Müllerstrasse 36). Resembling a Paris bar, Morizz (%201 6776; Klenzestrasse 43) is a popular haunt for gay men; and Bei Carla (%227 901; Buttermelcherstrasse 9) is an exclusively lesbian bar-café with lots of regulars.