Busabout Adventures

Don’t miss the medieval Old Town with ancient rampart walls and towers, and 15th-century buildings with painted façades. Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge), dating from 1333, is Lucerne’s best-known landmark. Also check out the rather dark and dour Dance of Death panels under the roofline of Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer Bridge).

At the Picasso Museum (041 410 35 33; Furrengasse 21; adult/student Sfr6/3; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 11am-1pm & 2-4pm Nov-Mar) nearly 200 photographs show an impish Picasso at work and play in his Cannes home during the last 17 years of his life.

Lucerne’s six-day Fasnacht celebrations are more boisterous and fun than Basel’s famous carnival. The party kicks off on ‘Dirty Thursday’ with the emergence of the character ‘Fritschi’ from a window in the town hall, when bands of musicians and revellers take to the streets.

Self-caterers should head to Hertensteinstrasse, where cheap eats are plentiful and there’s a Coop supermarket.

Rathaus Bräuerei (041 410 52 57; Unter der Egg 2; mains Sfr8-30) is an atmospheric restaurant serving home brews and some of the most delicious food in town. Cuisine ranges from local to Mexican to Vietnamese.

Brit beer, food and footy are on the menu at the lively Mr Pickwick Pub (041 410 59 27; Rathausquai 6; sandwiches Sfr6.50, mains Sfr10-23); the pub sandwiches are a real steal and there’s outdoor riverfront seating.

Jazzkantine (041 410 73 73; Grabengasse 8; mains from Sfr15) is a funky, arty and rather smoky haunt of the young and creative. There’s cool music, counter meals, Saturday-night gigs and weeknight jazz workshops.