Busabout Adventures

From Santa Maria Novella train station, it’s a 550m walk along Via de’ Panzani and Via de’ Cerretani to the Duomo. Once here, Via Roma leads down to Piazza della Repubblica and Via de’ Calzaiuoli connects with Piazza della Signoria. Most major sights are within comfortable walking distance of the Duomo.

You’ll never avoid queuing in Florence, but by pre-booking museum tickets you’ll be able to cut down the waiting. For €3 extra per museum you can book tickets for the Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, Galleria dell’Accademia and Cappelle Medicee through Firenze Musei (055 29 48 83; www.firenzemusei.it; booking service 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat).

Entry to all state museums is free for EU citizens under 18 and over 65, and half price for those between 18 and 25. To claim the discount you’ll need your passport.

Piazza del Duomo & Around
One of the world’s largest cathedrals, Florence’s Gothic Duomo (055 230 28 85; 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 10am-3.30pm Thu, 10am-4.45pm Sat, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) is quite an eyeful. Officially the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, it was begun in 1294 by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio and consecrated in 1436. Its most famous feature, the enormous octagonal cupola (dome; admission €6; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5.40pm Sat), was built by Brunelleschi after his design won a public competition in 1420. The interior is decorated with frescoes by Vasari and Zuccari, and the stained-glass windows are by Donatello, Paolo Uccello and Lorenzo Ghiberti. The characteristic red, green and white marble façade is actually a 19th-century replacement of the unfinished original, pulled down in the 16th century.

Beside the cathedral, the 82m Campanile (admission €6; 8.30am-6.50pm) was begun by Giotto in 1334 and completed after his death by Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti. The views from the top make the 414-step climb worthwhile.

The Romanesque Battistero (Baptistry; Piazza di San Giovanni; admission €3; noon-7pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm Sun) is one of the oldest buildings in Florence and it was here that Dante was baptised. Built between the 5th and 11th centuries on the site of a Roman temple, it’s famous for its gilded-bronze doors, particularly Lorenzo Ghiberti’s Gate of Paradise. Andrea Pisano’s south door (1336) is the oldest.

Galleria degli Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery)
Home to the world’s greatest collection of Renaissance art, the Galleria degli Uffizi (055 238 86 51; www.uffizi.firenze.it; Piazza degli Uffizi 6; admission €6.50, audio guide €4.65; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) attracts 1.5 million visitors annually. Unless you’ve booked a ticket expect to queue.

The gallery houses the Medici family collection, bequeathed to the city in 1743 on condition that it never leave the city. Highlights include The Birth of Venus and Allegory of Spring in the Botticelli rooms (10–14); Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation (room 15), Michelangelo’s Holy Family (room 25) and Titian’s Venus of Urbino (room 28). Elsewhere you’ll find works by Giotto, Cimabue, Filippo Lippi, Fra Angelico, Paolo Uccello, Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Tintoretto and Caravaggio.

Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria is dominated by the Palazzo Vecchio (055 276 82 24; admission €6; 9am-7pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu), the historical seat of the Florentine government. Characterised by the 94m Torre d’Arnolfo, it was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and built between 1298 and 1340. Visit the Michelozzo courtyard and the lavish upstairs apartments.

To the south, the Loggia della Signoria is a 14th-century sculpture showcase. The statue of David is a copy of Michelangelo’s original that stood here until 1873 but is now in the Galleria dell’Accademia.

Ponte Vecchio
Lined with jewellery shops, the Ponte Vecchio, built in the 14th century, was originally flanked by butchers’ shops. But when the Medici built a corridor through the bridge to link Palazzo Pitti with Palazzo Vecchio, they ordered that the butchers be replaced with goldsmiths.

Palazzo Pitti
Built for the Pitti family, this vast 15th-century palace was bought by the Medici in 1549 as their family residence. Today it houses four museums, of which the Galleria Palatina (Palatine Gallery; 055 238 86 14; admission incl Royal Apartments €6.50; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) is the most important. Works by Raphael, Filippo Lippi, Titian and Rubens adorn lavishly decorated rooms and royal apartments. The other museums are the Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum;055 238 87 09; admission €4 ; 8.15am-4.30pm Tue-Sun, 2nd & 3rd Mon each month), the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Modern Art Gallery; 055 238 86 16; admission €5; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sat) and the Galleria del Costume (Costume Gallery; 055 238 87 13; admission €5; 8.15am-1.50pm Tue-Sat).

Rising above the palace, the Renaissance Giardino di Boboli (Boboli Gardens; admission €4; 8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6.30pm Apr, May, Sep & Oct, to 5.30pm Mar, to 4.30pm Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec) is well worth a wander.

Galleria dell’Accademia
People queuing outside the Galleria dell’ Accademia (055 238 86 09; Via Ricasoli 60; admission €6.50; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) are waiting to see David, arguably the Western world’s most famous sculpture. Michelangelo carved the giant figure from a single block of marble, finishing it in 1504 when he was just 29.

Basilica di San Lorenzo & Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels)
The Medici family church, the Basilica di San Lorenzo (055 264 51 84; Piazza San Lorenzo; admission €2.50; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun) was built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century. Inside, his Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy) features sculptural decoration by Donatello. The cloister leads to the Biblioteca Laurenziana, built to house the Medici collection of some 10,000 manuscripts. Closed to all but researchers, the library’s real highlight is Michelangelo’s stairway, thankfully open to all.

Just around the corner, the sumptuous Cappelle Medicee (055 238 86 02; Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini; admission €6; 8.15am-4.50pm Tue-Sat, 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun of month, 1st & 4th Mon) includes the extravagant Cappella dei Principi, the principal burial place of the Medici grand dukes, and the incomplete Sagrestia Nuova, Michel-angelo’s first architectural effort.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart) A cart full of fireworks is exploded in front of the Duomo on Easter Sunday.

Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (www.maggiofiorentino.com; April to Jun) Italy’s longest-running music festival.

Festa di San Giovanni (Feast of St John) Florence’s patron saint is celebrated on 24 June with costumed soccer matches on Piazza Santa Croce.

ATAF (800 42 45 00; www.ataf.net) buses service the city centre and Fiesole, a small town in the hills 8km northeast of Florence. The most useful terminal is just outside the station’s eastern exit. Take bus 7 for Fiesole and bus 13 for Piazzale Michelangelo. Tickets cost €1/1.80/4.50 for one/three/24 hours.

To rent a car, try Hertz (055 239 82 05; Via M Finiguerra 33r) or Avis (055 21 36 29; Borgo Ognissanti 128r).

Alinari (055 28 05 00; www.alinarirental.com; Via Guelfa 85r; 9.30am-1pm & 2.45-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) rents out bikes from €7/12/24 for five hours/day/weekend.

Bookshops
Feltrinelli International (055 21 95 24; Via Cavour 12r) Great selection of books in English.
Paperback Exchange (055 29 34 60; Via delle Oche 4r) New and second-hand books in English.

Emergency
Police station (Questura; 055 497 71; Via Zara 2)

Internet Access
Internet Train (per hr about €4; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun) At Via dell’Oriuolo 40r (Borgo San Jacopo 30r) and Stazione Santa Maria Novella; opening times vary but are approximately as above.
Netgate (Via Sant’ Egidio 12r; per hr €2; 9am-11.30pm).

Laundry
Wash & Dry (800 23 11 72; 8kg wash/dry €3.50/3.50; 8am-10pm) At Via Nazionale 129r; Via del Sole 29r; Via della Scala 52-54r; Via dei Servi 105r; and Via de’ Serragli 87r

Medical Services
Farmacia Comunale (055 28 94 35; Stazione Santa Maria Novella; 24hr) Inside the train station.
Misericordia di Firenze (055 21 22 22; Vicolo degli Adimari 1, Piazza del Duomo; 2-6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Oct) Fee-paying medical service.
Tourist Medical Service (055 47 54 11; Via Lorenzo il Magnifico 59; 24hr)

Money
American Express (055 509 81; Via Dante Alighieri 22r; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Travelex (055 28 97 81; Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli 6r; 9am-5.50pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-4.50pm Sun)

Post & Telephone
Post office (Via Pellicceria 3)
Telecom office (Via Cavour 21r; 7am-11pm) Public payphones.

Tourist Information
Tourist offices Main office (055 29 08 32; www.firenzeturismo.it; Via Cavour 1r; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun); Piazza della Stazione 4 (055 21 22 45; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun); Borgo Santa Croce 29r (055 234 04 44; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun); Amerigo Vespucci airport (055 31 58 74; 7.30am-11.30pm daily)

Florence caters well to all budgets. There are hole-in-the-wall sandwich bars, Indian takeaways, earthy trattorie and some of Italy’s top restaurants.

Classic Tuscan dishes include ribollita, a heavy vegetable soup, canellini (white beans) and bistecca alla Fiorentina (the famous Florentine steak).

Quick Eats
Gelateria Vivoli (055 29 23 34; Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 7) Ice-cream aficionados rate the gelati here the city’s best. Flavours range from orange chocolate to fig and walnut.

I Fratellini (055 239 60 96; Via dei Cimatori 38r; panini €2-3) Although no more than a hole-in-the-wall panino bar, I Fratellini is city institution. Locals horde to the tiny counter for fresh-filled panini ready in the twinkle of an eye.

Gustapanino (333 920 26 73; Via dei Michelozzi 13r; panini €3; 10am-midnight) Just off Piazza Santo Spirito, Gustapanino does a roaring trade in panini and focaccia. To get some join the crowds of American students who lunch here every day.

Ramraj (055 24 09 99; Via Ghibellina 61r; set menus €8; Tue-Sun) Take time out from pizza, pasta and panini to remind yourself what a good curry and naan can do. Eat in or takeaway.

Restaurants
Trattoria Pane e Vino (055 24 38 03; Via dell’Agnolo 105; 1st/2nd courses €4/7; closed Sun dinner) For filling home-style Florentine food, this earthy trattoria does the job. The food – steaming bowls of delcious ribollita and slabs of grilled meat – is as authentic as the dusty décor.

Yellow Bar (055 21 17 66; Via del Proconsolo 39r; pizzas/1st/2nd courses €5/6/7) Great for a pizza and beer, the perpetually popular Yellow Bar is a fine example of what an Italian pizzeria should be – crowded, noisy and fun.

Mario’s (Via Rosina 2r; 1st/2nd courses €4/8; lunch Mon-Sat) A busy, cheerful trattoria full of market workers and tourists, Mario’s is well known for its hearty pastas and traditional main courses – all served at prices rare for such a central spot.

Trattoria Casalinga (055 21 86 24; Via dei Michelozzi 9r; 1st/2nd courses €5/7; Mon-Sat) The Casalinga is a brash, no-frills trat that offers a workaday menu of pasta staples and simple meat dishes. Always full, it’s better for a swift fill-up than a long, lingering lunch.

Borgo Antico (055 21 04 37; Piazza Santo Spirito 6r; pizzas & salads/2nd courses €7/12) This trendy, piazza-side eatery is ideal for whiling away an evening over a pizza and glass of something cool.

Self Catering
The central food market (Piazza San Lorenzo; 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) is good for fresh local produce. There’s also a supermarket (Stazione Santa Maria Novella) at the train station and a Standa (Via Pietrapiana 94) east of the Piazza del Duomo.

Florence’s definitive monthly listings guide Firenze Spettacolo is sold at newsstands (€1.75). Florence Concierge Information, a bi-monthly city guide, runs a good what’s-on website: www.florence-concierge.it.

Concerts, opera and dance are performed year-round at the Teatro Comunale (800 11 22 11; Corso Italia 16), which is also the venue for the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.

English-language films are screened at the Odeon Cinehall (055 21 40 68; www.cinehall.it, in Italian; Piazza Strozzi; tickets €7.20) on Mondays, Tuesday and Thursday.

SHOPPING
Shopping is concentrated between the Duomo and the Arno, with boutiques along Via Roma, Via de’ Calzaiuoli and Via Por Santa Maria. For the big fashion guns, head to Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova.

Just north of the Duomo the market (Piazza San Lorenzo; Mon-Sat) is good for leather goods, clothing and jewellery, although quality and prices vary. For bric-a-brac head for the fleamarket (Piazza dei Ciompi; daily) north of Santa Croce.

Angie’s Pub (055 28 37 64; Via dei Neri 35r; snacks €3-5) Whether an exercise in postmodernist irony or simply a tribute to the owner, the name sucks. Still, Angie’s is a perfectly good little pub with decent beer.

Cabiria (055 21 53 72; Piazza Santa Spirito 4/r; Wed-Mon) By day a pleasant-enough café, Cabiria morphs into a cool bar at night. Its understated vibe lends itself perfectly to hours of languid people-watching.

Joshua Tree Pub (Via della Scala 37r; happy-hr pint €2.60; 4pm-1am, happy hr 4-9pm) This thumping pub rocks, more often to the Beta Band than the Pogues, but the Guinness is still great. Smoky, rowdy and totally addictive.

Moyo (055 247 97 38; Via dei Benci 23r) A mixed crowd of sharp locals and foreign students drink at this funky modern bar. Good for an aperitif to a soundtrack of upbeat jazz.