Busabout Adventures

The main train station Santa Maria Novella, is a useful landmark. The main thoroughfare to the centre is Via de’ Panzani and then Via de’ Cerretani. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the Duomo.

Once at Piazza del Duomo, Florence is easy to negotiate, with most major sights within comfortable walking distance. Many museums close on Monday, but you won’t waste your time just strolling. Take the city ATAF buses to Piazzale Michelangelo, or to the suburb of Fiesole northeast of the centre, both offering panoramic views.

A good map of the city, on sale at news­stands, is Firenze: Pianta della Città.

Enjoying Florence’s sights can be taxing, as lengthy queues stretch patience. But don’t despair, call Firenze Musei ((055 29 48 83; www.firenzemusei.it; fee per museum €3; hphone lines: 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-12.30pm Sat) which advance-books tickets for all state museums, including the Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, Galleria dell’Accademia and Cappelle Medicee.

DUOMO
The terracotta-orange roof contrasts dramat­ically with the red, green and white marble façade of the skyline-dominating cathedral, the Duomo ((055 230 28 85; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat) – among Italy’s most beloved monu­ments. Officially the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, the breathtaking structure was begun in 1294 by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, taking almost 150 years to complete.

Brunelleschi won a competition (1420) to design the enormous octagonal dome, the first of its kind since antiquity. The interior is decorated with frescoes by Vasari and Zuccari, and stained-glass windows by Donatello, Paolo Uccello and Lorenzo Ghiberti. The façade is a 19th-century replacement of the unfinished 16th-century original. For a bird’s-eye view of Florence, climb to the top of the cupola (admission €6; h8.30am-6.20pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat).

Giotto designed and began building the graceful 82m campanile (bell tower;  climb €6; h8.30am-6.50pm) in 1334, but died before it was completed. The climb yields gorgeous views.

The Romanesque battistero (baptistry; admission €3, hnoon-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm Sun & holidays), believed to have been built between the 5th and 11th centuries on the site of a Roman temple, is the oldest building in Florence. Dante was baptised here, and it’s famous for its gilded-bronze doors. The celebrated Gates of Paradise by Lorenzo Ghiberti face the Duomo to the east. The south door (1336), by Andrea Pisano, is the oldest.

PALAZZO DEGLI UFFIZI
Ignore killjoys citing the two- to four-hour wait to enter the Palazzo degli Uffizi ((055 238 86 51; reservations (055 294 883, €1.55; www.uffizi.firenze.it; admission €8; h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun, ticket office closes 6.05pm) for the Galleria degli Uffizi – it’s worthwhile. Begun by Vasari in 1560 and ultimately bequeathed to the city by the Medicis in 1743, the palazzo houses the greatest collection of Italian and Florentine art anywhere, including many of the world’s most-recognisable Renaissance paintings.

The gallery’s masterpieces include gems by Giotto and Cimabue; Botticelli’s Birth of Venus (Room 10 to 14); plus works by Filippo Lippi and Fra Angelico. The Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci is here (Room 15), along with Michelangelo’s Holy Family (Room 25), Titian’s Venus of Urbino (Room 28) and renowned works by Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Tintoretto and Caravaggio.

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA & PALAZZO VECCHIO
Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and built between 1298 and 1340, Palazzo Vecchio (adult/child €5.70/4.30; h9am-7pm Fri-Wed, 9am-2pm Thu) is the traditional seat of the Florentine government. In the 16th century it became the ducal palace of the Medici (before they occupied the Palazzo Pitti), and was given an interior face-lift by Vasari. Visit the Michelozzo courtyard just inside the entrance and the lavish apartments upstairs.

The Loggia della Signoria stands at right angles to the Palazzo Vecchio, displaying sculptures. The statue of David is a fine copy of Michelangelo’s masterpiece; the original (1504) was once here, but now ‘lives’ indoors at the Galleria dell’Accademia.

PONTE VECCHIO
This 14th-century bridge, lined with gold and silversmiths’ shops, was the only one to survive Nazi bombing in WWII. Originally, the shops housed butchers, but when a corridor along the 1st floor was built by the Medici to link the Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Vecchio, they ordered that goldsmiths rather than noisome butchers should trade there. The engaging area south of the river is ‘the Oltrarno’ (literally, ‘beyond the Arno’).

PALAZZO PITTI
The immense Palazzo Pitti ((055 238 86 14) was built for the Pitti family, great rivals of the Medici, who moved in a century later. The Galleria Palatina (Palatine Gallery; admission before/after 4pm €8.50/4; h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) has works by Raphael, Filippo Lippi, Titian and Rubens hung in lavishly decorated rooms. The gallery and (almost hysterically) luxuriant decoration of the royal apartments are not to be missed. The palace also houses the Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum; h8.15am-4.20pm Tue-Sun, 2nd & 3rd Mon each month), the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Modern Art Gallery; h8.15am-1.50pm Tue-Sat) and the Galleria del Costume (Costume Gallery; h8.15am-1.50pm Tue-Sat), all of which are worth a visit.

While you’re here, don’t miss the Renais­sance Giardino di Boboli (Boboli Gardens; admission €4; h8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, 8.15am-6.30pm Apr-May & Sep, 8.15am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 8.15am-4.30pm Nov-Feb), with secluded grottoes, leafy walkways and panoramic views.

GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA
Beating even Rodin’s The Thinker and The Kiss for the title of ‘Most Famous Sculpture in the Western World’, Michelangelo’s David is housed in the Galleria dell’Accademia ((055 238 86 09; Via Ricasoli 60; admission €6.50; h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun). David truly is an amazing work close-up, being much bigger and more intricately detailed than many imagine. A 90-minute wait is typical.

BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO & CAPPELLE MEDICEE (MEDICI CHAPELS)
The Basilica di San Lorenzo was built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century for the Medici and includes his Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy), with sculptural decoration by Donatello. The cloister leads to the Biblioteca Laurenziana, the library built to house the Medici collection of some 10,000 manuscripts. Enter via Michelangelo’s flowing mannerist stairway.

The Cappelle Medicee ((055 238 86 02; admission €6; h8.15am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun of the month, 2nd & 4th Mon of the month) are around the corner in Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini. The Cappella dei Principi was the burial place of the Medici dukes. The incomplete Sagrestia Nuova represents Michel­angelo’s first effort at architecture, and contains his Medici Madonna, Night & Day and Dawn & Dusk sculptures, adorning the Medici tombs.

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Regular trains to Galileo Galilei depart platform five at Santa Maria Novella station (1½ hours, 6.45am to 5pm). Leave your bags at the air terminal (%21 60 73; platform 5) at least 15 minutes before train departure. You can get to Amerigo Vespucci with the Vola in Bus shuttle from the SITA depot in Via Santa Caterina da Siena (€4, 25 minutes, every 30 minutes, 6am to 11.30pm). Purchase tickets on board.

BIKES & SCOOTERS
Alinari (%055 28 05 00; www.alinarirental.com; Via Guelfa 85/r; bike per 1hr/5hr/day/week from €3/12/16/70, scooter from €8/22/28/140) hires bikes and scooters – prices vary with the model. Compulsory helmet is supplied.

BUS
ATAF buses service the centre and Fiesole. The best terminal is in a small piazza to the left as you exit the station onto Via Valfonda. Bus No 7 leaves for Fiesole, stopping at the Duomo. Tickets (one/three/24 hours €1/1.80/4) must be bought before boarding and are sold at tobacconists and newsstands.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There are car parks dotted around the centre. A good choice is Fortezza da Basso (€1.10 for one hour). Further details are available from Firenze Parcheggi (%055 500 19 94). To rent a car, try Hertz (%055 239 82 05; Via M Finiguerra 33r), or Avis (%055 21 36 29; Borgo Ognissanti 128r).

BOOKSHOPS
Feltrinelli International (%055 21 95 24; Via Cavour 12r) Italy’s best foreign-language bookstore.
Paperback Exchange (%055 247 81 54; Via Fiesolana 31r) Has a huge range of new and second-hand books.

INTERNET ACCESS
Internet Train (www.Internettrain.it; per hr around €4) Via dell’Oriuolo (%055 263 89 68) Borgo San Jacopo 30r (%055 265 79 35) beneath Stazione Santa Maria Novella (%055 239 97 20) Has 15 branches.
Netgate (%055 658 02 07; www.thenetgate.it; Via Sant’ Egidio 10-20r; h10am-10.30pm, happy hr free access 10.30-11am & 2-2.30pm Sat)

LAUNDRY
Wash & Dry (%800 23 11 72; h8am-10pm) Via del Sole 29r;  Via della Scala 52-54r;  Via de’ Seragli 87r

MEDICAL SERVICES
For an ambulance call %118.
Farmacia Comunale (%055 28 94 35) Inside the train station, its open late.
Misericordia di Firenze (%055 21 22 22; Vicolo degli Adimari 1; h1.30-5pm Mon-Fri) A medical service for tourists, just off Piazza Duomo.
Molteni (%055 28 94 90; Via dei Calzaiuoli 7r; h24hr) A late-night city centre pharmacy.
Police station (general: %055 497 71, lost property: %055 328 39 42, towed vehicles: %055 41 57 81; Via Zara 2) Has a foreigners’ office.

Festivals & Events
Festa di San Giovanni (Feast of St John, Flor­ence’s patron saint) is held on 24 June, and includes calcio storico (period football), ie soccer matches played in 16th-century costume on the Piazza Santa Croce.

Maggio Musicale Fiorentino is Italy’s longest-running music festival, held from April to June. For more information call Teatro Comunale (%800 11 22 11).

Held in front of the Duomo on Easter Sunday, Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart) involves igniting a cart full of fireworks. Yes, it’s as noisy and popular as it sounds.

MONEY
American Express (%055 509 81; Via Dante Alighieri 22r; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat)
Travelex ( %055 28 97 81; Lungarno degli Acciaiuoli 6r)

POST & TELEPHONE
Main post office (Via Pellicceria 3; h8.15am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.15am-12.30pm Sat).
Telecom office (Via Cavour 21r; h7am-11pm)

TOURIST INFORMATION
Amerigo Vespucci Airport (%055 31 58 74; h7.30am-11.30pm)
Tourist office (%055 29 08 32; www.firenzeturismo.it; Via Cavour 1r; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm Sun) There is another office (%055 21 22 45; Piazza della Stazione 4; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-2pm Sun).

Tuscan cuisine is about simplicity and quality. It’s also surprisingly good value. A local delight that must be sampled at least once is ribollita, a heavy soup of vegetables and canellini (white beans).

Angie’s Pub (%055 28 37 64; Via dei Neri 35r; snacks €3-5; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun) One of Florence’s better pubs, it does great cheap lunches, with a huge panini list.

Yellow Bar (%055 21 17 66; Via del Proconsolo 39r; pizza meals €7-10; hlunch & dinner) A rambunctious restaurant whose atmosphere is as infectious as it is lively, the ambience as good and simple as the food. Plenty of seating doesn’t stop it being regularly full.

Mario’s (Via Rosina 2r; pasta €5, mains €5; hlunch Mon-Sat) Two generations of expertise fuel this much-loved diner perpetually heaving with hungry locals. Delicious authentic pastas can be had for a song. Budgeting or not, Mario’s offers a glimpse of the quintessential Italian eatery in all its glory – the value is a welcome bonus.

da Garibardi (%055 21 22 67; www.garibardi.it; Piazza del Mercato Centrale 38r; meals €15-20; hnoon-11pm) Leave nearby Za Za to the other tourists (ignore the impressive queue – that’s English they’re speaking) and indulge at this wonderful trattoria. Highly recommended is the pasta al cinghiale (with wild boar in a sauce of olives, bay leaves, mushrooms and peppercorns).

Trattoria Casalinga (%055 21 86 24; Via dei Michelozzi 9r; meals about €16) The pick of the Piazza Santa Spirito tratts is crammed with locals, lunch and dinner. There’s a ‘hurry-up!’ feel, but you won’t mind being nudged along for food this good at these prices. Homey, tasty, fantastic – the real ribollita is superb.

I Tarocchi (%055 234 39 12; Via dei Renai 16r; pizza/course €5/7; hTue-Fri & dinner Sat & Sun) Serving good pizza and huge pasta portions has kept this humble place among the most popular in the Oltrarno. Students with shallow pockets abound at lunch time.

Borgo Antico (%055 21 04 37; Piazza Santo Spirito 6r; mains €7-10; hlunch & dinner) Heaped portions are part of the draw at this great eatery, popular with a hip crowd. It could also be the excellent Tuscan dishes, prime terrace space on a lovely piazza, or the amazing prices.

Gelateria Vivoli (%055 29 23 34; Via dell’Isola delle Stinche 7) South of Via Ghibellina,widely considered Florence’s best for gelato.

I Fratellini (%055 239 60 96; Via dei Cimatori 38r; panini €2-3) This Florentine institution has been dishing up fresh, quick takeaway panini for nearly 130 years.

Stock up on basics at the food market (h7am-2pm Mon-Sat) in San Lorenzo or at the supermarket on the western side of the train station, or east of Piazza Duomo at Via Pietrapiana 94.

Firenze Spettacolo (€1.75), the best monthly entertainment guide, sold at news­s­tands.

Teatro Comunale (%800 11 22 11; Corso Italia 16) Concerts, opera and dance are performed here year-round.

Odeon Cinehall (%055 21 40 68; www.cinehall.it; Piazza degli Strozzi; tickets €7.20; hMon, Tue & Thu, other days Italian only) Screens original-language films.

Shopping
Shopping is concentrated between the Duomo and the Arno. The open-air market (hMon-Sat) in the San Lorenzo district offers leather goods, clothing and jewellery, sometimes of dubious quality. The flea market (Piazza dei Ciompi; hdaily), off Borgo Allegri and north of Santa Croce, is better for finding genuine bargains.

Stick to cocktails or the aperitivo/happy hours at the following places. Also, see left for details of Angie’s Pub and Yellow Bar.

Cabiria (%055 21 53 72; Piazza Santa Spirito 4/r; huntil late Wed-Mon) This blissful bar has a happy vibe and is perfect for hours of languid people-watching.

Elliot Braun Bar (%055 35 23 52; Via Ponte alle Mosse 117r; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri & 6pm-2am Mon-Sat, aperitivo 6-8pm) An alt-cool mish-mash that’s a unique treat: art exhibits, cocktails, food and live music, renowned for its aperitivo; buy a drink and gorge on the monster buffet. Anywhere else it would be ‘freeloading’ – in Italy, it’s called ‘timing’.