Germany’s eastern heartland is for many people (Germans included) the most historically German. Together with Brandenburg, East Berlin and Mecklenburg–Western Pomerania, these states made up the GDR. In the popular towns such as Dresden you’ll still easily see vestiges of things past in the monumental – and monumentally ugly – 1960s blocks of buildings around the centre.
In death, Dresden became even more famous than in life. Shortly before the end of WWII, Allied bombers blasted and incinerated much of the historic centre, a beautiful jewel-like area dating from the 18th century. In life, Dresden was famous throughout Europe as ‘Florence on the Elbe’, owing to the efforts of Italian artists, musicians, actors and master craftsmen who flocked to the court of Augustus the Strong, bestowing countless masterpieces upon the city. More than 35,000 people died, and in bookshops throughout town you can books showing the destruction (or read about it in Kurt Vonnegut’s classic Slaughterhouse Five).
Rebuilding began under the communist regime in the 1950s and accelerated greatly after reunification, culminating in the city’s 800th anniversary in 2006. With its beautiful baroque centre and vibrant nightlife, Dresden is a major tourist attraction that can bring in major crowds in summer.
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Sights
Dresden straddles the River Elbe, with the attraction-studded Altstadt in the south and the livelier Neustadt to the north. One of Dresden’s most beloved icons, the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady; 439 3934; www.frauenkirche-dresden.org; Neumarkt; 10am-6pm) on Neumarkt, was rebuilt in time for city’s 800th anniversary celebrations. Built between 1726 and 1743 under the direction of baroque architect George Bähr, it was Germany’s greatest Protestant church until February 1945, when WWII bombing raids flattened it.
Leading northwest from Neumarkt is Augustusstrasse, with the stunning 102m-long Procession of Princes porcelain mural covering the outer wall of the old royal stables. Augustusstrasse leads directly to Schlossplatz and the baroque Catholic Hofkirche (1755). Just south of the church is the Renaissance Schloss, which is being reconstructed (slowly!) as a museum.
Theaterplatz
On the western side of the Hofkirche is Theaterplatz, with Dresden’s glorious opera house, the neo-Renaissance Semperoper (4911496; Theaterplatz; tour adult/child €6/3; varies) – if you’ve watched any German TV you’ll probably recognise it from a certain beer commercial. The opera tradition goes back 350 years, and many works by Richard Strauss, Carl Maria von Weber and Richard Wagner premiered here.
Next door, the baroque Zwinger fortress (491 4622; Theaterplatz 1; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is another great Dresden heavyweight, with no fewer than six museums within its ornate walls. The most important are the Rüstkammer (armoury; adult/child €3/2), with its superb collection of ceremonial weapons, and the Galerie Alte Meister (adult/child €6/3.50, incl entry to Rüstkammer), which features masterpieces including Raphael’s Sistine Madonna.
The dazzling Porcelain Collection (491 4622; adult/concession €5/3) includes plenty of local Meissen classics.
Brühlsche Terrasse
The imposing block of Albertinum (491 4619; Brühlsche Terrasse; adult/child €5/2.50; 10am-6pm Wed-Mon) houses many of Dresden’s art treasures. The Galerie Neue Meister, with renowned 19th- and 20th-century paintings from leading French and German Impressionists, was closed during 2007 for expansion and renovation. Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt (866 090; tours from €11.50) runs river tours on rebuilt steam ships from the docks below the terrace.
Information
Dresden Information (4919 2100; www.dresden.de; Prager Strasse 21; second location Theaterplatz 2; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Discount cards from €19.
E@sy Internet (Pfarrgasse 1; per hr €3.95; 9am-midnight)
Haus Des Buches (497 369; Dr-Külz-Ring 12) Huge selection on local history and culture.
Eating
It’s no problem finding somewhere to eat in the Neustadt, with oodles of cafés and restaurants found along Königstrasse and the streets north of Albertplatz. This is also the centre of nightlife.
Cafe Kontinental (801 3531; Görlitzer Strasse 1; mains €5-15; 24hr) A bustling place open around the clock, this trendy café caters to a broad swathe of Neustadt characters.
Caffe Blumenau (802 6502; Louisenstrasse 67; mains €5-15; 8am-2am) Flowers abound in this beautiful café and bar which also has a sunny back patio. A long breakfast menu is served through the day as well as sandwiches, salads, pasta and cakes.
Wenzel Prager Bierstuben (804 2010; Königstrasse 1; mains €7-20; 11am-midnight) This busy beerhall serves up oceans of Czech lager under arched brick ceilings. Always crowded, the menu leans towards traditional meaty mains. The garlic soup is sublime and the cured pork with horseradish a delight.
Entertainment
Dresden is synonymous with opera, and performances at the spectacular Semperoper (491 1496; www.semperoper.de; Theaterplatz), opposite the Zwinger, are brilliant. Tickets cost from €10, but they’re usually booked out well in advance.
Some performances by the renowned Philharmonic are also held at the Semperoper, but most are in the communist-era Kulturpalast (486 60; www.kulturpalast-dresden.de; Schlossstrasse 2), which hosts a wide range of concerts and events.
Drinking
The places listed under Eating above are also good just for a drink.
Neue Tonne (802 6017; www.jazzclubtonne.de; Königstrasse 15; entry free-€15) This well-known place has live music almost nightly.
Scheunecafé (802 6619; Alaunstrasse 36-40; mains €7-12) Set back from the street, Indian food, a vast beer garden, live music and DJs all combine here for a fun and funky stew
Café 100 (801 7729; Alaunstrasse 100) Off a courtyard, you’ll pass hundreds of empty bottles on the way in, a foreshadowing of the lengthy wine list and delights that follow. Candles give the underground space a romantic yet edgy glow.
Queens (810 8108; Görlitzerstrasse 3) This hopping gay bar/lounge/disco is a good first stop to find out what’s happening locally.
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