Touristy, overcrowded and a tad fake. Preface any other city with these descriptions and it would be left for dead. Not Bruges. This medieval town is Belgium’s most popular destination and is not to be missed.
By the 14th century, Bruges was one of Europe’s leading trade centres. But the following century, the waterway linking the city to the sea silted. Despite attempts to built a new canal, Bruges’ economic lifeline was gone. Traders and townsfolk abandoned the city, leaving it suspended in time.
These days Bruges dreamily evokes a world long since gone. But its reputation as a perfectly preserved city is in part fabrication – much of the town was rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries to reflect medieval times.
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Orientation
Central Bruges fits neatly into an oval-shaped series of canals, at the core of which are two central squares, the Markt and the Burg. The main square, the Markt, is about 1.5km north of the train station; to get there just jump on any bus marked ‘Centrum’.
Sights
Exploration of Bruges always starts at the historic Markt, the city’s medieval core. Here rises Belgium’s most famous Belfort (belfry; adult/concession €5/3; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, last tickets sold 4.15pm); there are 366 steps to the top.
The nearby Burg features Belgium’s oldest stadhuis (city hall), along with the Heilig-Bloedbasiliek (Basilica of the Holy Blood; h9.30-11.50am & 2-5.50pm Apr-Sep, 10-11.50am & 2-3.50pm Oct-Mar), where a few coagulated drops of Christ’s blood are kept and cherished.
Bruges’ prized art collection dating from the 14th to 21st centuries is housed in the small Groeningemuseum ((050 44 87 50; Dijver 12; adult/concession €8/5; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun). Most notable is the section on Flemish Primitives.
The renowned Memlingmuseum ((050 44 87 70; Mariastraat 38; adult/concession €8/5; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) is home to a handful of masterpieces by Hans Memling, one of the early Flemish Primitives. Don’t miss the reliquary of St Ursula – the attention to detail is stunning.
The Onze Lieve Vrouwkerk (Mariastraat; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; h9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun), or Church of Our Lady, has one remarkable art treasure: Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. This small marble statue (1504) was the only work of art by Michelangelo to leave Italy in his lifetime.
The begijnhof (admission free; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Mar) was home to a 13th-century religious community of unmarried or widowed women, known as begijnen (Beguines). A 10-minute walk south of the Markt, it’s one of Bruges’ quaintest spots and is unquestionably a must.
Bruges’ newest attraction is Choco-Story ((050 61 22 37; St Jansplein; admission €5; h10am-5pm), a museum devoted to telling the story of chocolate. It’s well done.
De Halve Maan/Straffe Hendrik ((050 33 26 97; Walplein 26; admission €3.70; h11am-4pm Apr-Sep, 11am-3pm Oct-Mar) is a family brewery offering crowded guided tours (45 minutes) that finish with a beer.
Getting around
Bruges is ideal for cyclists. Rent a bike from Fietsen Popelier ((050 34 32 62; Mariastraat 26; rental per hr/half day/full day €3/6/9; h10am-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 10am-8pm Jul-Aug).
Information
ATM (Markt 5) Attached to the main post office.
Main post office ((050 33 08 27; Markt 5; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-noon Sat)
Toerisme Brugge ((050 44 86 86; www.brugge.be; Burg 11; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Sat & Sun) Tourist office.
Eating
From cosy estaminets (taverns) to first-class restaurants, Bruges has all bases covered.
Tom’s Diner ((050 33 33 82; West Gistelhof 23; mains €10-15; h6.30pm-1am, closed Tue) To the north of town, a little way out of the tourist centre and all the better for it. Stylish food at very affordable prices. Locals love it.
Lokkedize ((050 33 44 50; Korte Vuldersstraat 33; dishes €8-10; hfrom 7pm Wed-Thu, from 6pm Fri-Sun) One of the city’s most convivial cafés and a great spot for a late-night bite (kitchen open until midnight).
Het Dagelijks Brood ((050 33 60 50; Philipstockstraat 21; snacks €5-11; h7am-6pm, closed Tue; n) Part of a national bakery-tearoom chain, with just one big table where you can eat salads or boterhammen (sandwiches).
De Stove ((050 33 78 35; Kleine St Amandsstraat 4; mains €18-28; h11.30am-2.30pm Sat-Tue, 6-10pm Fri-Tue, closed Wed & Thu) Charming restaurant tucked away on a pedestrianised lane. The eight tables are arranged around an old stove, the service is intimate and the food –
fish specialities – is excellent.
The Top (St Salvatorskerkhof 5; hfrom 9pm Tue-Sat, from 10pm Sun) Coolest bar in town; opens late and moves until morning.
Also recommended:
Lotus ((050 33 10 78; Wapenmakerstraat 5; meals €9.20; h11.45am-2pm Mon-Sat) Excellent lunch-time vegetarian restaurant.
Christophe ((050 34 48 92; Garenmarkt 34; mains €24; h7pm-1am Thu-Mon) Fab late-night bistro.
Bolero ((050 33 81 11; Garenmarkt 32; h9pm-4am, closed Tue) The only gay and lesbian bar in town.
Proxy/Delhaize (Geldmuntstraat) Supermarket.
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