Touristy, overcrowded and a tad fake: preface any other city and it would be left for dead. Not Bruges (Brugge). This medieval town is Belgium’s most popular destination and, despite the crowds, it’s not to be missed.
By the 14th century, Bruges was one of Europe’s leading trade centres. But during the following century, the waterway linking the city to the sea silted up. Despite attempts to build a new canal, Bruges’ economic lifeline was gone. Traders and townsfolk abandoned the city, leaving it suspended in time.
These days Bruges dreamily evokes a world long since gone. But its reputation as a perfectly preserved city is partly fabrication –much of the town was rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries to reflect medieval times.
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Orientation
Bruges’ main square, the Markt, is about 1.5km north of the train station; to get there jump on any bus marked ‘Centrum’.
Sights
Bruges’ nerve centre is the historic Markt, a large open square from which rises Belgium’s most famous Belfort (Belfry; Markt; adult/concession €5/3; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, last tickets sold 4.15pm). Squeeze up the 366 steps.
The nearby Burg features Belgium’s oldest stadhuis (City Hall; Burg; admission €2.50; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun), along with the Heilig-Bloedbasiliek (Basilica of the Holy Blood; Burg; 9.30-11.50am & 2-5.50pm Apr-Sep, 10-11.50am & 2-3.50pm Oct-Mar), where a few coagulated drops of Christ’s blood are kept and cherished.
Bruges’ prized collection of art dating from the 14th to 20th centuries is housed in the small Groeningemuseum (Dijver 12; adult/concession €8/5; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun). Most notable is the section of Flemish Primitives.
The Hospitaalmuseum St Janshospitaal (Mariastraat 38; adult/concession €8/5; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) is home to a handful of masterpieces by Hans Memling, one of the early Flemish Primitives. Don’t miss Memling’s reliquary of St Ursula – the attention to detail is stunning.
The Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady; Mariastraat; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun) has one remarkable art treasure: Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. This small marble statue (1504) was the only work of art by Michelangelo to leave Italy during his lifetime.
The Begijnhof (admission free; 9am-6.30pm) was home to a 13th-century religious community of unmarried or widowed women, known as Begijnen. A 10-minute walk south of the Markt, it’s a must.
Choco-Story (050 61 22 37; www.choco-story.be; Wijnzakstraat 2; admission €6; 10am-5pm) devotes itself to all things rich, dark and yummy. It’s well done.
Getting around
A small network of buses operated by De Lijn (059 56 53 53) covers destinations in and around Bruges. Single/day ticket prices are €1.20/5.
Bruges is ideal for cyclists. Rent a bike from Fietsen Popelier (050 34 32 62; Mariastraat 26; per hr/half-day/day €3.50/7/10; 10am-6pm, until 8pm Jul & Aug).
Information
ATM (Markt 5) Attached to the main post office.
In&Uit Brugge (050 44 46 46; www.brugge.be; ‘t Zand; 10am-6pm, until 8pm Thu) Tourist office located inside the Concertgebouw.
Main post office (050 33 14 11; Markt 5)
Tourist office (9.30am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Tue-Sat) At the train station.
Eating
From cosy estaminets (taverns) to first-class restaurants, Bruges has all bases covered.
Het Dagelijks Brood (050 33 60 50; Philipstockstraat 21; snacks €5-11; 7am-6pm Wed-Mon) Smoke-free tearoom offering pies and boterhammen (sandwiches), plus the essential big table. A Belgian success story with branches worldwide.
Passion for Food (0477 40 17 14; Philipstockstraat 39; soup €4-6, salad €6-13; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Great Mediterranean flavours at this laid-back eatery. Sip a fresh juice on the terrace.
Lokkedize (050 33 44 50; Korte Vuldersstraat 33; dishes €8-10; from 7pm Wed & Thu, from 6pm Fri-Sun) One of the city’s most convivial eetcafés and a great spot for a late-night bite (kitchen open till midnight).
Tom’s Diner (050 33 33 82; West Gistelhof 23; mains €10-15; 6.30pm-1am Wed-Mon) To the north of town, a little way out of the tourist centre and all the better for it. Stylish food at very affordable prices. Locals love it.
Also recommended:
Lotus (050 33 10 78; Wapenmakerstraat 5; meals €10; 11.45am-2pm Mon-Sat) Excellent lunch-time vegetarian restaurant.
Proxy/Delhaize (Geldmuntstraat) Supermarket.
Entertainment
Concertgebouw (05 047 69 99; www.concertgebouw.be; ‘t Zand 34) Contemporary comes to Bruges in the form of this concert hall. Opened in 2002 to celebrate Bruges’ stint as the European City of Culture, its minimal design incorporates the city’s three famous towers.
Cactus@MaZ (05 071 68 40; www.cactusmusic.be; Magdalenastraat 27) The city’s premier venue for contemporary and world music – either live or DJ.
Drinking
Bolero (050 33 81 11; Garenmarkt 32; 9pm-4am Wed-Mon) The main gay and lesbian bar in town.
‘t Brugs Beertje (050 33 96 16; Kemelstraat 5; 4pm-1am Thu-Tue) Belgium’s most famous beer pub is a tiny place situated on a poky backstreet. About 250 national brews are on offer, listed by brewery.
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